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20.04.10

M Clear turtles on our table are the exception to the rule rather than the commonplace. There is no chance to buy it in an ordinary supermarket or on the market, to try it in a restaurant is a privilege for the elite, because it is a well-known fact that Today turtle hunting is prohibited in most countries, and that most of the turtles are listed in the Red Book.

And yet, if you are lucky enough to have the opportunity to taste, say, turtle soup - lunch, a la gourmet, you are guaranteed. By the way, it will be said that in some countries turtle meat is valued on a par with fish (since it contains a large amount of phosphates and iodine) and costs a penny. It is prepared without any frills and seasonings.

Turtle meat strengthens the liver and kidneys, promotes concentration and development of the child's intelligence, and develops memory well.
Turtle dishes are most popular in Asian countries, especially in China, such a delicacy as turtle soup. Meat is also valued as a "tonic" that is believed to have a positive effect on sexual function. Turtles are caught with a fishing rod, spear or nets.

Turtles played an important role in Japanese mythology as well. During the Edo period, the Far Eastern turtle stew, or suppon as the Japanese call it, was a very popular delicacy in Japan and was also credited with various medicinal properties... Sick people and people with weak immunity ate turtle meat. But people who abused the absorption of this dish, it was believed, could fall under the control of the outraged spirit of Suppon.
One myth tells of how three men who lived in Nagoya always ordered suppon and sake. One day they came to buy more, but the turtle meat merchant who greeted them had the face of a turtle, and instead of legs, a long, ghostly tail. The men ran home, trembling with horror for three days, and after this incident they never ate the suppon again.

In the old days, ships with turtles (and transported them up to 1000 per year) were sent to England (which is considered the birthplace of turtle soup) from the Ascension Islands, which were delivered to members of royal families, lords and other nobility. The abdominal shield of each caught turtle, which is called "plastron", was signed with the name of the one to whom the reptile was intended for the table. The conditions of transportation left much to be desired, and therefore every morning the officer on duty on watch reported to the captain as follows: "We lost Lord Barrington overnight" or "The Earl of Shaftesbury is not feeling well, may die," but the king's turtle was sacred to all sailors - she had no right to feel bad, much less to die.

Could not ignore such a delicacy and a famous French admirer and connoisseur of cooking, like A. Dumas. In his vocabulary, he devotes several pages to a colorful description of how to make turtle soup. First you need to have fresh turtle meat, just caught from natural environment habitat, since if the turtle has been on land for some time, its meat takes on the smell of spoiled fish. Then the gourmet colorfully describes the moment of cutting the turtle carcass: “If it works out, then
I must cut off her head with one blow of a knife, recently sharpened. Then you should put the turtle on its back, tilting what is left of its neck, and let the blood drain for 10-12 hours. After that, you need to take the shell and open it by inserting a knife between the upper and lower parts, but without cutting off either the front or the hind legs. When the upper part of the carapace is removed, it is necessary to remove the fat and entrails, which should be preserved, and then cut off the front and hind legs, while also cutting off the meat and bones that are associated with the legs. These portions of turtle meat are slightly similar in taste to the middle portion of a veal fillet (nut) and therefore bear the same name. They should be separated from the bones, or in order to be further used for cooking meat dish or entree, or in order to use the day of the preparation of turtle soup with the bones. When the meat has been removed from both parts of the carapace, the carapace must be divided into square pieces, peeled thoroughly, boiled in plenty of water, also blanched both pairs of paws and the neck, and then thoroughly peeled and soaked in water for an hour. When the square pieces of the shell become soft to the touch, and the large bones and scales can be easily removed from them, you need to drain the water from them, clean and put the small parts in a ceramic bowl and pour the liquid in which they were cooked on top, having previously filtered it through a sieve. Next, chop up the raw turtle bones, put them in a saucepan along with the meat and paws, pour the liquid in which the shell was cooked, add the usual mint broth and pour in a few bottles of white wine. Let the liquid boil and cook, skimming off the foam. After that, set the pot aside from the heat and add to it the same ingredients used to make the potofyo soup. When the paws are cooked, drain the liquid from them, remove the bones, put the meat in a ceramic bowl and cover with the liquid in which they were cooked. Remove the fat from the rest of the liquid, strain, sieve it and leave for a while at room temperature.

To cook turtle soup, proceed as follows: for 8-10 people, cook about two to three liters of turtle broth, keep it hot. Cut into pieces two medium-sized chickens, place them in a saucepan along with the bones, wings, paws and well-washed stomachs, cut into pieces, add 300-450 g raw ham, cut into large cubes. Fry the meat over high heat in butter until it is slightly browned. Sprinkle with two tablespoons of arorut starch from the Marenla tropical plant. After two minutes, pour in the tortoiseshell broth and a glass of white wine, stir the liquid before it boils, remove it from the heat, add a bunch spicy herbs, two onions. When the chickens are cooked, remove the fat from the liquid in which they are boiled, strain this liquid through a sieve into another pan, add some of the chicken flesh, as well as the turtle's paws, and in equal amounts the upper and lower parts of the shell. Both paws and carapace should be cut into small squares. Next, bring the soup to a boil and add a glass of sherry. If the soup turns out to be too thick, dilute it with turtle broth; the soup should thicken only slightly. After 25 minutes, remove the fat, add some cayenne pepper and a few chunks of turtle fat, which should be blanched and chopped small pieces... At the time of serving, a tincture is added, which is prepared from three quarters of a glass of sherry, a pinch of marjoram, a small amount of basil, a pinch of savory, thyme with the addition of a sprig of sage, but none of these herbs should dominate. The liquid should be evaporated by one third. If these herbs have recently been picked, then when they are cooked, they must be ground in a mortar and mixed with the soup. This is how I imagine turtle soup - real turtle soup! "

Turtle Soup (Cooking, 1955)

Cooking method: Cut off the head and limbs of the turtle, hang it up so that the blood drains. Gut and rinse thoroughly many times cold water... Remove the meat from the ears, trim the pieces and cut them into neat small slices (blankets). Boil the slices in salted water for 3-4 hours. Remove the slices from the broth, and put a piece of beef, a piece of veal, chicken, veal leg and pieces of turtle left over from stripping into the broth. Add roots and onions and cook until full readiness of all meat products... Strain the broth, put slices of boiled turtles in it and boil for another 30-40 minutes.
Prepare an infusion of aromatic herbs (basil, marjoram, parsley, dill, rosemary, mint, nutmeg). To do this, put these spices in a saucepan with boiling Madeira (1 glass), boil, set aside from heat and let it brew; then strain, pour the infusion into the soup and bring to a boil. Season the soup with salt, pepper and serve with a few slices of turtle in each plate. Turtle soup to give it the smallest density, you can fill it with a spoon potato starch diluted with cold water.
Soup, known in Russia as "false turtle soup" is prepared in the same way, but instead of a turtle, a veal head is used.

Turtle soup by A. Dumas

Cooking method: For the turtle soup, put the pieces lean meat turtles in a large pot, add 10 kg beef slices, 2 veal legs, 3 old chicken. Pour in 3 large spoons of broth and let your gravy semi-solidify over high heat. After that, fill a saucepan with strong meat broth, put 4 onions in which, stick cloves in, add a bunch of basil and rosemary and leave to simmer for six hours. When everything is done, as we just said, take the skin removed from the abdominal and dorsal part of our shri, cut into 3 cm2 pieces; cut the paws as well if you have no intention of making a hot second course out of them. Place the resulting pieces in a saucepan with the slices on the bottom. lard pour in a bottle of old madeira and sturdy meat broth, prepared in advance and filtered through a sieve. Cook everything together from time to time, tasting the meat's doneness. The pot should retain a calf head-like enzyme that does not take long to cook.

This soup is served in two flavors: clear or thick. At the end of cooking, mint, basil, rosemary and thyme are added to it, which are pre-poured with a good glass of Madeira, insisted and evaporated to a quarter of the volume. Add some cayenne pepper as well and finish off the soup. Before serving, taste the soup: it should be extraordinarily pleasant.
In England, this soup has a special quality due to the fact that our overseas neighbors have fresh plants at all times, from which they make the mashed potatoes used at the end of the preparation of this soup.

Regency turtle paws

Cooking method: Place a layer of lard, some smoked Bayonne ham, four onions with a few cloves in it, Indian aromatic spices, and turtle paws on the bottom of the roasting pan. Sprinkle with a pinch of spice powder, top with slices of lard and a few slices of veal, scarlet a bottle of old Madeira and strong meat broth. Cover with paper and on top of it with a sealed lid, placing hot coals on top of it. Cook over low heat, checking the readiness from time to time: in order for the meat to cook well, the gravy should decrease in volume by 3/4. At the time of serving, drain the liquid from the paws, place them on a dish, on top of a thick layer of toasted bread lying in the middle of the dish. Garnish the hot dish with a rich side dish of croutons, truffles, cockscombs and socks, meatballs, etc. Then strain the gravy through a sieve, let stand and remove the fat. Share on great dish, add four large spoons of Spanish sauce, stir over high heat with a pinch of cayenne pepper, and place in water bath... Make sure that the sauce is delicious, thick and slightly raised.

Turtle soup

Ingredients: turtle meat 1 kg, vegetable oil 100 g, flour 1 cup, onion 1 pc., ham 100 g, tomatoes 400 g, Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp. l., juice of 3 lemons, cognac 150 g, garlic, thyme, lavrushka, salt, pepper to taste

Cooking method: Melt butter in a saucepan, add flour and sauté until golden brown. Dilute the passivation with 4 liters of water, or vegetable broth... In another pan, fry finely chopped onion, add finely chopped ham, lay out finely diced tomatoes and fry all together for about 10 minutes. Cut the turtle meat into portions, add to vegetables, keep on fire for another 5 minutes and remove. Put the contents of the pan into the broth, mix gently, add herbs and spices, pour in the Worcestershire sauce, bring the soup to a boil and cook until the meat is tender. 10 minutes before the end of cooking, add lemon juice and brandy to the soup.

Turtle

Ingredients: 1 turtle, 1 carrot, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potato starch, butter, sugar, lemon, salt.

Cooking method: Wash the turtle, clean the shell, boil for 30 minutes. Then remove the turtle from the broth, remove the meat, chop finely. Wash the carrots, peel, cut into slices, boil until tender with salt, butter and sugar. Add the turtle meat and a little strained broth in which it was cooked. Add starch, bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Ready soup season lemon juice... Turtle soup (option 2) 1 turtle, 200 g beef, 200 g veal, 200 g chicken meat, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 parsley root, herbal infusion, 1 teaspoon of potato starch, salt. For herbal infusion: 1 glass of Madeira, basil, marjoram, parsley, dill, rosemary, mint, nutmeg. Butcher the turtle: chop off the head and legs and hang them to drain the blood. After that, gut the carcass and rinse thoroughly in several waters. Remove the meat, cut into small equal slices. Boil the slices in salted water for 3-4 hours. After that, remove the slices from the broth and put in it beef, veal, chicken meat and pieces of turtle meat remaining after cutting. Add chopped onions and roots. Cook until the meat is cooked, then strain the broth, dip the boiled turtle slices into it and cook for another 30-40 minutes. Prepare herbal infusion. To do this, bring Madeira 3 0 to a boil, dip a few leaves of basil, marjoram, parsley, dill, rosemary, mint and a little nutmeg into it, bring to a boil again, remove from heat and let it brew. After that strain the infusion, pour into the soup and bring to a boil. Add salt to the soup to taste, season with starch diluted in water. You can pepper it lightly.

In Moscow, you can try turtle and chicken soup in the restaurant "Ancient China", which is located at Kamergersky per. d. 5/6.

Turtle green: the story of an eternal struggle

Man is omnivorous by nature. Plants, animals and birds, mushrooms and flowers, insects and even reptiles - all this is used for food, in one form or another. Not bypassed the sowing bowl and the green turtle, which was named "soup" and all thanks to the exquisite dish, for the preparation of which its meat is used.

First meeting

The first mention of green turtles can be found back in the 16th century, when Christopher Columbus, crossing the Caribbean Sea, collided with giant herds of these reptiles, which blocked the path of his ships. He was literally struck by the abundance of these shells, which actually gave the name to the open islands - Las Tortugas, which literally translates as a turtle.

But the name never caught on, in fact, just as the countless herds of green turtles, mercilessly exterminated by man, have not survived to our times. After all, even then, wandering sailors tasted them and were happy to catch turtles, drying and salting their meat.

Modern historians note that green turtles served well during the discovery and development of the Caribbean islands. After all, it is not known what else the sailors would have had to eat, while on long voyages, if not for these "live canned food".

Today, this reptile can be found in the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans. At the same time, she sticks to the coastal regions, where she looks for a semblance of caves and grottoes for her rest.

South Africa, USA, Argentina, Philippine Islands, Australia, Holland, Belgium and Great Britain - these lands are today the main suppliers of green turtle to the world market. And so far, thanks to nature, its population is not threatened by an irrepressible human appetite.

Portrait of a green turtle

Today green turtle represented by several subspecies, known to man.
1) Atlantic green turtle, which can be found off the coast of Europe and North America... It has a fairly wide and flat shell, which actually distinguishes it from its relatives.

2) Green Pacific Eastern turtle inhabiting the waters of California, Chile and near Alaska. Outwardly, she looks quite tall compared to her closest relatives.

But regardless of their subspecies, green turtles are rather large reptiles. The weight of an average-sized individual can reach 200, and in some cases and 400 Kg, reliably covered from above with an almost stone shell, which is only in the teeth of a large shark.

Despite the fact that it was called green, the color of the turtle can vary from light yellow to dark brown. And at the same time be monochromatic or with alternating spots and stripes.

Its own name Green she got it due to the color of fat, which accumulates with age on the inside of the carapace.
But, despite their massiveness and carapace covered with bony outgrowths, all representatives of green turtles are incredibly skillful swimmers. They excelled in speed of movement under water, and in diving, and in mobility. And as for their character, it is unlikely that there will be an even more meek reptile on Earth. Her beautifully outlined eyes literally look into the soul of the enemy with their sad and mysterious looks when she tries to be the first to retreat from the battlefield and take refuge in the nearest thickets or in the water.

Why turtle meat is so prized

The green turtle is not a fighter in the animal kingdom. She is helpless in front of a person who just needs to turn her over and that's it - you can do whatever you want with her.

But the problem is also that the object of fishing is not only adult individuals of the turtle, but also its eggs, which represent a special nutritional value... Thus, the population of turtles is dealt a double blow.

What up turtle meat, then it is really useful for the human body.
A powerful source of vitamins PP, groups B, A, K and E.
A large number of potassium, phosphorus, sodium and calcium.

In addition, green turtle meat contains selenium, iron, zinc and magnesium, making it an indispensable product for people with chronic diseases liver and gastrointestinal tract.

The meat of green turtles can be considered a real medicine for people weakened by chronic diseases, and for patients who have undergone surgery. It is light and nutritious at the same time, capable of giving strength to the body and prolonging its youth.

But in addition to its useful properties, turtle meat is also famous for its taste, which is why, in fact, many people strive to taste it, not sparing money, because dishes made from green turtle cannot be classified as cheap.

The taste of turtle meat is really interesting, and most importantly delicate. To one he reminds frog legs, other chicken, but both of them are unanimous in opinion - the taste of the turtle is truly festive, and the aroma is unforgettable and delicate.

Not only soup is made from turtle!

Some peoples of Africa and Asia can boast daily use meat of green turtles for food, and in its raw form. But for the majority of the inhabitants of the Earth, as in the Middle Ages, it remains an exotic and uncommon product.

True, today on the shelves of branded supermarkets you can find frozen semi-finished products from turtle meat, its eggs and even canned food.

The most popular and affordable dish the green turtle soup is still there. By the way, there are a great many recipes for its preparation.
"Creamy turtle soup."
"Spice Turtle Soup."
A. Dumas Turtle Soup.

And this is just the beginning long list variations of this dish. Perhaps, each nationality strives to bring something of its own and special to this dish, thereby claiming the title of an absolute soup made from green turtle.

Also, apart from the soup, the turtle is famous for its fried or baked paws. And as for the eggs, it is most often and best to bake them whole. So this product retains all its taste and beneficial features, being the strongest aphrodisiac.

Sooner or later, any self-respecting housewife thinks about how to surprise her household. AND the best way to do this is to cook some exotic dish. Turtle soup will surely appeal to lovers of seafood and delicious dishes made from them. By the way, it is turtle soup that is traditional dish the Chinese province of Hebei.

Interesting facts

Where is turtle soup eaten? In fact, this dish is widespread in many countries with access to the sea. In the Chinese province of Hebei, turtle soup is served in restaurants, cooked at home, and is also treated exquisite delicacy dear and honored guests. By the way, serving this dish is a special matter. So, the owner of the house, before serving the turtle soup to the table, puts a tray with two bowls in front of the guest. One of them contains turtle blood, and the second contains its bile, diluted with strong alcoholic beverage... Of course, all this is presented for a reason - the guest must empty both bowls as a sign of respect.

V European restaurants you can also enjoy a gourmet turtle dish. The only difference is that here the guest does not have to drink her blood. Turtle soup has healing power, since reptiles live in a clean environment, feed on algae rich in iodine and phosphates, as well as other plants that contain a lot of useful substances.

Not every turtle is suitable for making soup. Typically, these are green or specially bred soup vulture turtles.

By the way, England is considered the birthplace of this dish. Several centuries ago, ships that transported reptiles were sent from Ascension Island. A mark was placed on the abdomen of each individual, which indicated the purpose of each particular turtle. For this reason, among the crew members one could often hear a phrase like "The Earl of Shaftesbury eats almost nothing since yesterday - it could end badly" or "Lord Barrington passed away last night."

There was also a special turtle on the ship intended king's table- she had no right to feel bad, and even more so to death. And on the islands themselves there was such great amount these creatures, which were often used to prepare food for local prisoners.

The turtle is used in folk medicine... So, her eggs are used as a tonic and aphrodisiac. And the dried genitals of the male have a strong effect on male potency.

Tortilla Soup

Turtle soup is considered a delicacy in many cultures. For its preparation, the chefs use the turtle meat directly, some of the insides, as well as the skin and some shields from the shell.

What turtles are used to make turtle soup? In fact, there are special varieties such as the vulture or green turtle, as well as the Far Eastern variety. main feature- this is a soft shell, which indicates the presence of the most tender meat under it.

An abundance of herbs and natural spices - distinctive feature turtle soup. In one of the Chinese restaurants you can taste gourmet soup from Pelodiscus sinensis - a kind of Far Eastern turtle or Chinese Trionix. To create turtle soup, they try not to use reptiles with a hard shell - which is due to the legends and legends that hover around these individuals.

Taste this cooking masterpiece in China it is an honorable business, so you should make an order in advance. The fact is that even pre-cooked and seasoned ingredients will not allow you to quickly cook turtle soup. The recipe for this dish requires a long boil over low heat.

Turtle soup usually has a dark, rich color. As a rule, small pieces of fat float on its surface, and the soup itself has a sharp aroma. Dark turtle meat, somewhat like spiced pork soy sauce, or resembles reindeer meat. The taste of turtle meat is ambiguous - it is a cross between pork, chicken and veal. It should be noted that turtle meat has a slimy consistency, which is very similar to canned mushrooms.

The described soup is incredible tasty dish... The only thing worth warning gourmets about is small bones and pieces of shell that can be found in large pieces meat. This dish is definitely worth trying for lovers of exotic and culinary delights.

1995 cookbook recipe

First of all, you need to choose quality ingredients... For the soup, choose a turtle that is intended for culinary use.

So, the cooking method:

• Chop off the turtle's head and hang the carcass so that all the blood drains from it.
• After that, gut it and rinse thoroughly with water. It is better to do this several times.
• Separate the meat from the bones and cut into small pieces.
• After that, boil the pieces of pulp in slightly salted water for 3-4 hours. Then boil small pieces of beef and pork in the same water. Add roots, onions and other vegetables. Boil the soup until all products are fully cooked.
• Then you need to prepare an infusion of herbs and fragrant spices... To do this, take a pinch of rosemary, basil, parsley, dill and mint, put in a saucepan of boiling Madeira (about 1 glass) and simmer over low heat for several minutes.
• Finally, pepper and salt the dish. Before serving, you can season the turtle soup without big amount diluted potato starch for greater density.

The method of making turtle soup in a European way

It is not easy for an ordinary housewife to prepare such a dish, but on weekends in the markets of a big city you can find exotic foods, which will become the basis of turtle soup. So, in order to cook turtle soup, the price in a restaurant of which will unpleasantly surprise customers (in Moscow it starts from 2,900 rubles), you need to choose high-quality meat.

You can buy it at the market or in a large supermarket. As a last resort, you can buy turtle meat, which is sold frozen. The main thing is to use exclusively quality product, as it may contain toxic substances that are dangerous to the human body.

In the event that the meat gets on the hostess's table frozen, it should be placed in the refrigerator and only then left to defrost at room temperature. By the way, it is best to use vulture turtle meat, which has a soft texture.

Preparation of ingredients

Now about how to make turtle soup. In fact, the recipe for this dish is simple, if you approach the cooking process with interest.

In parallel with defrosting the meat, it is worthwhile to prepare the rest of the ingredients. Turtle soup is cooked with a lot of vegetables, spices and herbs, so you can start preparing food:

1. Peel and finely chop the onions (it will take about half a glass).
2. Shallots should also be cut into 1/3 cup small pieces.
3. Chopped celery will take about 100 g.
4. Chopped garlic needs about 2 tablespoons.
5. Fresh parsley and dill as a final ingredient.

To make turtle soup, you need boiled eggs and freshly squeezed lemon juice.

Cooking meat

A dash of salt, 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, and 6 cups of water is the base in which the finely chopped turtle meat will cook. The broth must be brought to a boil, then left over low heat, from time to time removing the foam. Cook for at least 30 minutes. After that, the meat is laid out on a plate to cool. The water in which it was boiled will be required in the future, so you should not pour it out. Boiled carcass must be cut into small pieces.

After that, fry a tablespoon of flour in a pan with butter... This is necessary for the velvety texture of the soup. Then add the cooked vegetables and continue to simmer in the pan. Seasonings, spices and herbs are sent to the container only after the vegetables are 70% ready. Now you can add the broth in which the turtle meat was cooked and the remaining ingredients to a deep frying pan.

Before serving, the soup is garnished with herbs and boiled eggs cut into halves.

Turtles are one of the oldest reptiles on earth. These sluggish creatures have existed for over 220 million years. Today there are about 230 species of turtles. They inhabit most of the waters of the tropical and temperate zones. Some species are also found in Russia. Delicious meat and beautiful shell are the main reasons for the extermination of turtles by humans. Some species of these animals, due to uncontrolled capture, are endangered or have already disappeared from the face of the Earth.

Cooking methods

The meat of these animals is eaten both raw and boiled or fried... The meat of about ten species of turtles is usually used for food: six species of freshwater and four species of sea turtles.

The meat on the fins of the turtle has a darkish tint, and on the back it is lighter. Turtle meat tastes like frog legs and is also considered a delicacy. A lot of different turtles are prepared exotic dishes... The most common is turtle soup: in addition to turtle meat, onions, celery, Bay leaf, tomato sauce, Tabasco sauce, flour and lemon. However, the classic turtle soup is made from cartilage. For three days, a classic turtle soup is cooked - a greenish broth - from a green sea (soup) turtle, which is therefore so nicknamed.

Turtle meat can be stewed in coconut milk with the addition of ginger, lemongrass, curry leaves, salt and sugar. There are also less exotic recipes for cooking this meat. The turtles are baked in the oven with salt and pepper for about three hours. If the meat is stewed with mushrooms, onions, bell peppers and garlic, you get delicious and nutritious dish... It is best served with rice. Turtle meat is sometimes soaked in salted water for about an hour before cooking. After that, the meat will become an excellent filling for the dough. Turtle meat fried with onions is an easy-to-prepare and at the same time original dish.

Turtle meat can be served both with traditional garnish: tomatoes, potatoes, rice, and with sweet exotic fruits... From sauces, spicy, sweet and sour, and exotic sweet sauces are suitable for turtle meat. Meat is usually seasoned with herbs and spices such as oregano, thyme, lemongrass, bay leaf, celery, spinach.

Beneficial features

Turtle meat is rich in phosphates and iodine due to seaweed that she feeds on. Turtle meat is known to help in the treatment of anemia. It is believed that turtle meat is also beneficial for people with cancer.

Interesting fact

Turtle meat is a staple in traditional Aboriginal festivals in many Pacific islands.

The meat of not all turtles can be eaten. One person died and 139 residents of one of the islands in West Sumatra were hospitalized with food poisoning after eating turtle meat.

Calorie content of turtle meat

The calorie content of turtle meat is about 90 kcal.