And most often they observed surprise on their faces. Here's a paradox: this salad, invented by one of the representatives of the famous dynasty of French culinary experts, is a Russian national dish.

The famous salad appeared in the 60s of the XIX century thanks to the great chef Lucien Olivier, who moved from France to Russia. He became the owner of the famous Moscow restaurant "Hermitage" on Trubnaya Square. The place was the most pretentious, with European chic and Russian helpfulness (the waiters were dressed like taverns, only all the uniforms were made of expensive fabrics ordered, for example, in Holland). The audience was appropriate, and the cuisine was one of the most famous in the capital.

The well-known everyday painter of Moscow in his book "Moscow and Muscovites", of course, could not ignore the "Hermitage", having told about this institution in the essay "On the Pipe" - that is how Trubnaya Square was popularly called in those days. And about the famous Frenchman and his salad, Gilyarovsky wrote: “It was considered special chic when the meals were prepared by the French chef Olivier, who even then became famous for his“ Olivier salad ”invented by him, without which lunch is not at lunchtime and the secret of which he did not open. No matter how hard the gourmets tried, it didn’t come out: this, but not that ”. Alas, the original salad recipe remained unknown: Olivier died without giving secret ingredients this dish. We got only a recipe, restored by one of the Hermitage's regulars from personal observations and taste.

Russian barbarians

Funnily enough, they say, Olivier invented his salad out of anger. And it was like this. The chef decided to please the Hermitage visitors with a new dish called Game Mayonnaise. It was a real culinary composition: diced lanspeck, veal tongue and crayfish tails, sprinkled with Provencal mayonnaise. And in the center of this cold cuts, mostly for decoration, there was a hill of potatoes with gherkins, topped with boiled eggs.

But the Russians appreciated not so much the aesthetic as the gustatory merit of the dish: in front of the wounded Frenchman, visitors mixed vegetables with game, turning cooking masterpiece in some semblance hearty salad... The next day, an angry Olivier expressed his "phi" in relation to such barbarism, independently mixing all the ingredients and sprinkling them with sauce. For which many thanks to him!

Imitation of Olivier

As you know, one of the tasks of the revolutionary movement was the program to rid the Soviet people of all sorts of bourgeois vestiges. And even more so from such a whim as aesthetics. In a word, people were not up to harmonious combinations of tastes. salad ingredients... So they forgot about Olivier for almost 50 years, and then he suddenly appeared in the center as a symbol of prosperity in a crystal salad bowl. Delicious, beloved by everyone, but outrageously simplified version there is no time legendary salad, which the color of the Moscow public enjoyed, with sausage and terribly scarce mayonnaise and green peas ...

Terminology issues

The kabul sauce provided in the recipe (or soybean kabul) is a certain spicy seasoning... And, apparently, the product called "soy" has nothing to do with it. There are at least three opinions about what it is. Someone says that it looks like Kabul tomato sauce "Yuzhny", which was prepared in Moscow restaurants. Someone thinks that this is a mixture of hot pepper, vinegar and broth. There is one more option: sautéed on butter flour (1 tbsp. spoon), which added broth (50 ml), grated horseradish (1 tbsp. spoon), cream (1 tbsp. spoon) and salt. In a word, there are many difficulties in understanding the recipe. But if you want, you can conduct a series of experiments. And even if you replace hazel grouse for chicken, and crayfish tails for shrimp, it will still turn out delicious!

Considered a festive and traditional New Year's. It got its name in honor of its creator, chef Lucien Olivier, who ran the Hermitage restaurant of Parisian cuisine in Moscow in the early 1860s. Abroad known as "Russian salad" or " Potato salad"(Potato salad, though without meat and peas). Sometimes Olivier is also called meat salad.

Story

The earliest publication of a recipe for Olivier salad, known at the moment, is given in the magazine "Our food" No. 6, March 31, 1894.

In the book by P. P. Aleksandrova "Guide to the study of the basics culinary arts»1897 edition indicated next recipe :

Olivier salad

Required products and their proportion per person.

Hazel grouse - ½ pieces. Potatoes - 3 pieces. Cucumbers - 1 piece. Salad - 3-4 leaves. Provencal - 1½ table. spoons. Cancer necks - 3 pieces. Lanspeak - ¼ glass. Capers - 1 teaspoon Olives - 3-5 pieces.

Cooking rules: Cut the fillet of fried good hazel grouse into blankets and mix with blankets of boiled, not crumbly potatoes and slices fresh cucumbers, add capers and olives and pour over big amount Provencal sauce, with the addition of kabul soybeans. After cooling, transfer to a crystal vase, decorate with crayfish tails, lettuce leaves and chopped lanspeck. Serve very cold. Fresh cucumbers can be replaced with large gherkins. Instead of hazel grouse, you can take veal, partridge and chicken, but real snack Olivier is certainly prepared from hazel grouse.

According to some reports, the original salad recipe is as follows: 2 hazel grouse, veal tongue, quarter pound pressed caviar, half a pound fresh salad, 25 boiled crayfish, half a can of pickles, half a can of kabul soybeans, two fresh cucumbers, a quarter pound of capers, 5 hard boiled eggs.

For the sauce: Provencal mayonnaise should be cooked on french vinegar from 2 eggs and 1 pound of provencal (olive) oil.

IN soviet time Olivier salad recipes have changed several times, some ingredients have been replaced by others, cheaper and more accessible. The standard Soviet Olivier consisted of 6 ingredients:

• boiled potatoes;
• boiled sausage ("Doctor's");
• boiled carrots;
• hard boiled eggs;
• pickled (pickled) cucumbers;
• green peas (canned);

Everything was cut into cubes, mixed and seasoned with mayonnaise. The ease of manufacture and the availability of ingredients made this salad extremely popular dish in soviet years... Olivier was an indispensable attribute of the Soviet festive table at October Revolution Day and [a source?] New Year . Another name for the modern recipe for this salad - "Winter" - arose due to the fact that its ingredients are readily available in winter, unlike the ingredients of "summer" salads. During the years of perestroika, changes occurred in the Soviet recipe: they began to replace sausage boiled meat, and as an option, apples and fresh cucumbers... Chicken instead of beef got its name "Capital salad"... Moscow salad is also considered one of the varieties: catering workers added there boiled potatoes a lot. [a source?]

Notes

Links

• Investigations of S. Olivyushkin: "The Case of the Mystery of Olivier Salad".

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See what "Olivier (salad)" is in other dictionaries:

Olivier salad - see Olivier salad ... The fate of the eponyms. Dictionary-reference

Salad Salad (dish) (from Italian Salato, Salata, i.e. salty) cold dish made from various vegetables (actually lettuce leaves, various greens, root vegetables, mushrooms, potatoes, cucumbers, beans, fruits, green leaves of endive, water ... ... Wikipedia

This term has other meanings, see Salad. Vegetable salad Salad (Italian Salato, Salata "salty" ... Wikipedia

Lucien Olivier (fr. Lucien Olivier) a cook of French or Belgian origin, who ran the Hermitage restaurant in Moscow in the early 1860s; known as recipe maker famous salad, soon named after its creator. His ... ... Wikipedia

Lucien Olivier (fr. Lucien Olivier, 1838 1883) a cook of French or Belgian origin, who ran the Hermitage restaurant in Moscow in the early 1860s; known as the creator of the famous salad recipe, soon named after ... ... Wikipedia

olivie - unsl., M. Olivier. In France, such a salad is unknown, it is assumed that it originated from the name of Fr. a chef who worked in Russia. Olivier salad. Chicken, crayfish, potatoes, cucumbers, eggs, salt, pepper, olive oil, green salad. Nezhentseva 1911 ...

V.A. Gilyarovsky in his book “Moscow and Muscovites” recalled: “It was considered a special chic when the cook, Frenchman Olivier, who even then became famous for his“ Olivier salad ”invented by him, without which lunch is not at lunchtime, and the secret of which he did not open, cooked dinners. ... Culinary dictionary

Olivier first and last name french origin... Notable carriers: Olivier, Guillaume Antoine (1756 1814) French naturalist, entomologist and botanist. Olivier, Joseph (1874 1901) French rugby player, champion of the Summer Olympics ... ... Wikipedia

salad d "boeuf - * salade de boeuf. He Olivier introduced beef (salad d beef), or fried game (salad Olivier, later called the capital) into the famous Parisian salad with mayonnaise. PIO 1999 5 30 ... Historical Dictionary of Russian Gallicisms

salad olivier - See Olivier ... Historical Dictionary of Russian Gallicisms

The history of Olivier salad is truly amazing - created as thin dish from fried hazel grouse and crayfish necks, in the Soviet Union, he turned into the main new Year's salad with boiled sausage and green peas. If you ask any housewife what they add to Olivier, the answers will amaze with their diversity - some manage to put tomatoes in the Olivier, others prepare this salad using canned corn... Despite the aristocratic history of origin, the Olivier salad has become the most democratic dish, prepared from products at hand and generously seasoned with mayonnaise.

Olivier salad owes its history to the French chef Olivier, who worked in the Moscow restaurant "Hermitage". In the original, this dish was not at all what was prepared and consumed in basins in the USSR.

Lucien Olivier, glorified by Gilyarovsky, invented a slightly different dish, which combines with our usual Olivier only the presence of mayonnaise and “ meat product". The difference is that the meat was fried hazel grouse cut into strips (or in pure form, or supplemented with veal and partridges). As evidenced by data from the history of the creation of Olivier salad, mayonnaise was, of course, homemade... Molokhovets has a similar dish called game mayonnaise.

The history of the emergence of Olivier salad in Russia

The exact recipe of Olivier himself has not survived, but, according to the recollections of Hermitage visitors, in addition to hazel grouses, the salad contained jelly cubes (from partridge broth), gherkins, fresh cucumbers and cool eggs, which were supposed to play a purely decorative role. Olivier was shocked to the core when the Russian merchants kneaded the eggs with a fork, added them to the rest of the dish, and ate them. And the main thing that was added to the Olivier salad was crayfish tails and truffles. Apparently, the idea to add to the salad boiled potatoes It did not occur to Olivier (he was still French, not German), but already in Russian cookbooks at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, this ingredient appears in recipes. In the gas station, in addition to mayonnaise, fairly diluted olive oil, the mysterious "soy kabul" was added, apparently, one of the varieties of soy sauce.

The history of Olivier salad in Russia after the revolution has undergone serious changes. In the 1930s, the salad mutated into Stolichny (this recipe, by the way, also has its author - Ivan Ivanov, the chef of the Moscow restaurant): chicken instead of hazel grouses and no truffles with crayfish tails, which were replaced by boiled carrots. The latter allegedly appeared in a "mutant" salad in the restaurant of the House of Writers, where they cut it instead of crabs for the color of USSR literature that had taken on the chest - it is similar in color, but neither prose writers nor poets were able to distinguish them by taste.

Wines for Olivier salad

1. Champagne or other good sparkling wine. According to half of Moscow sommeliers, Olivier goes well with low-dose brut (Brut Naturel) or Italian Franciacorta Dozage Zero, which can cope with eggs and vinegar in mayonnaise.

2. If your salad contains, as it should be, crayfish tails and a red game, then you have a choice of many quiet white wines: a simple New World chardonnay (without oak), Riesling (so that it has not only acidity, but also good alcoholic component) or the average price of sauvignon blanc (which will be good for an authentic recipe, it will overcome both mayonnaise and hazel grouses). To refined versions of Olivier in restaurant serving advise white burgundy and light sancerre samples.

3. If your Olivier is more meaty, then light red wine will suit it. Among the latest inventions of Moscow chefs there are, for example, Olivier with roast beef, smoked duck, veal tongue. This will be good for a red Burgundy regional level (say, pommare). Another appetizing option - Olivier with Tambov ham and pickled apples - simply appeals to the spicy cat-du-rhône.

4. A saving option for all cases (including serving in a basin) - fortified wines: sherry amontillado, dry malaga or white port - that is, something not particularly sweet, but with a good "body" and a powerful bouquet.

An old ad in which the same Olivier salad is mentioned on the menu.


Photo source - http://bov.livejournal.com

Lucien Olivier (fr. Lucien Olivier) (1838 - 1883) - a chef of French or Belgian origin, who ran the Hermitage restaurant in Moscow in the early 1860s; known as the creator of the famous salad recipe, soon named after its creator. His recipe was a secret that he never divulged until his death.

In 2008, Olivier's grave was discovered at the Vvedenskoye cemetery and restored.

Read more about the history of Olivier salad inside the post.

According to Gilyarovsky, the famous Hermitage restaurant arose as a result of the addiction of the French culinary expert Lucien Olivier and the Moscow merchant Yakov Pegov to snuff. Both of them were subject to this little weakness. And the best tobacco in Moscow was made by a boothman on Truba. It was at this security guy that they met. The acquaintance later grew into a common cause.
These two undoubtedly enterprising people made the fateful decision to open a new French restaurant "Hermitage Olivier". Pegov had a property at the corner of Petrovsky Boulevard and Trubnaya Square. Here the restaurant was rebuilt and it was decided, again, it is convenient - it is not far from the booth for tobacco.

Photo source - http://dedushkin1.livejournal.com

In all respects, the new inn looked like the highest-class Parisian restaurant with exquisite culinary recipes... The only difference was that, instead of tailcoats, the waiters were dressed in the way traditional for Russian taverns. As usual Russian sex, but in very expensive clothes: in white thin Dutch linen shirts, belted with belts of natural silk. The selection for a finely slender appearance was also appropriate.

Initially, the Frenchman invented for his restaurant not a salad at all, but a dish called Game Mayonnaise. For him, fillets of hazel grouses and partridges were boiled, cut, laid out on a dish, interspersed with cubes of jelly from poultry broth. Boiled crayfish tails and slices of tongue, sprinkled with Provencal sauce, were gracefully placed next to it. And in the center was a pile of potatoes with pickled gherkins, decorated with slices of hard-boiled eggs.
As conceived by Olivier, the central "slide" was not intended for food, but only for beauty, as an element of the dish's decor.

Soon Olivier saw that many Russian ignoramuses served on the table "Game Mayonnaise" immediately mixed with a spoon like porridge, destroying the carefully thought-out design, then put it on their plates and eat this mixture with pleasure. He was horrified by what he saw. But the next day, the inventive Frenchman, as a sign of contempt, demonstratively mixed all the ingredients, sprinkling them with mayonnaise. Lucien Olivier turned out to be right in the creative consideration of Russian taste - the success of the new dish was tremendous!
Thus, the original culinary idea Olivier was almost immediately vulgarized - and the dish he invented actually changed the "genre".

Nobody managed to find out the recipe for a wonderful salad. Only 20 years after the death of the maestro, in 1904, according to the testimony of eaters and restaurateurs, Olivier's big salad secret seems to have been revealed.

In our time, the Olivier recipe has undergone significant changes. Now the method of its preparation has become extremely simple, and the dish includes available ingredients: boiled potatoes, mayonnaise, pickled or pickled cucumbers, green peas, sausage or chicken.
Having set out to conquer Moscow, Lucien Olivier remained in the capital forever: in memory, like a meter french cuisineand his salad is on holiday tables - as an unsurpassed masterpiece of culinary art.

Here is the composition of the real salad "Olivier" (though already the period of its decline - 1904, and the secret of the true "Olivier" its creator took with him) is as follows:

Reconstruction of a real salad "Olivier"

So, Olivier took:

• meat of two boiled hazel grouses,
• one boiled veal tongue,
• added about 100 grams of black pressed caviar,
• 200 grams of fresh salad,
• 25 boiled crawfish or 1 can of lobster
• half a can of very small pickled cucumbers (pickles),
• half a can of soybean kabul (a kind of soybean paste produced then),
• two fresh crumbled cucumbers,
• 100 grams of capers (a prickly vegetable that has flower buds pickled),
• finely chopped five pieces of hard-boiled eggs.

All this bourgeois delicacy was seasoned with Provencal sauce, which was to be cooked in French vinegar, two fresh egg yolks and a pound (400 grams) of olive oil.

The main secret amazing taste lettuce consisted of a small amount of certain spices, which Olivier personally in a secret room introduced into his mayonnaise. It was the composition of these spices that could not be reliably restored. Well, the rest of the products included in the salad were in plain sight, so special secret did not imagine.

Lucien Olivier, the Frenchman who invented the salad so popular on our tables, worked as a cook in Russia in the 19th century. By the way, it was Monsieur Olivier who founded the Hermitage restaurant. But the name of this French chef has been captured for centuries by the history of origin.
French chef for a long time lived in Moscow. But he constantly lacked something in this big city. He realized what he lacked french chic on Russian soil. Then he buys a piece of land and intends to open a French restaurant. If possible, the best in Moscow. Luck does not leave Monsieur Olivier. The Hermitage Restaurant is becoming a very popular place among the bourgeoisie, among the nobility and even among ordinary students... At first, the restaurant was preparing classic French dishes, the restaurant has paid for itself with interest. By the way, this building is still preserved. If you wish, you can walk around it and imagine the whole history of creating a salad with your own eyes.
The history of "Olivier" salad begins when the Russian people become tired of classic French dishes. Monsieur Olivier comes up with new salad with very exquisite taste... Visitors call this new salad "Olivier" immediately. This is the story of the creation of Olivier salad, but the story is just beginning. Many chefs try to repeat the recipe, but they fail. In the end, the salad recipe was simplified as much as possible.
As a result, Olivier himself revealed his secret. Today you can make exactly the salad that was served in the Hermitage restaurant. True, this recipe will hardly remind our traditional salad Olivier, which every housewife knows how to cook. Olivier salad according to the recipe from the Hermitage restaurant includes boiled fillet two hazel grouses, boiled veal tongue, 100 g of black caviar, 200 g of lettuce leaves, 25 boiled crayfish (one large lobster is also suitable), 250 g small cucumbers, soybean paste (half a can), two chopped fresh cucumber, 100 gr capers, 5 boiled eggs... Refueling this gourmet salad, like its counterpart, mayonnaise.
The history of the emergence of Olivier salad in its modern interpretation is a history of trial and error. After the death of the founder of the Hermitage restaurant, the recipe passed from hand to hand. It was discovered, and chefs from wealthy metropolitan houses tried to recreate this salad for their employers. This situation developed up to the First World War, then the 1917 revolution also happened. Many of the ingredients in the salad were simply impossible to get. Several new variations of the salad appeared, using those products that somehow could be bought in stores. In Moscow in the 1920s, restaurants served Olivier salad according to a new, modified recipe. It included 6 boiled potatoes, two onions, three carrots, two pickled cucumbers, one apple, 200 grams of boiled poultry fillet, a glass of green peas and three boiled eggs... As before, the salad was dressed only with mayonnaise.
In the 19th century, when Olivier's salad was invented, it was made from products that were accessible and understandable for that time. This is the basic principle that has preserved and modern recipe salad. After all, carrots, potatoes and green pea can be obtained at any time of the year and at a relatively low price. True, today all over the world Olivier has the name "Russian salad". Many foreigners love this dish and highly appreciate its taste.