If in middle lane Russia is an indispensable attribute of a New Year's dinner - salad "Olivier", but in Siberia this role is played by dumplings. Rare festive feast it does without local northern fish - at least on the table there will be a plate with lightly salted omul or grayling. Almost every family has own recipes traditional Siberian dishes.

But a significant part of the Siberian culinary heritage has now been lost. With the help of experts traditional cuisine Russian Planet has restored old recipes and dispelled several popular culinary myths.

Merchant fast food

Pelmeni replaced the first, second and even dessert for Siberians. You can read about this in Gilyarovsky's series of essays "Moscow and Muscovites". He describes how ten of the richest Siberian gold miners hosted a dinner that consisted exclusively of dumplings with different fillings... And for sweets, dumplings with fruit boiled in pink champagne were served. A total of 2.5 thousand dumplings were eaten.

A century later, much has changed. Traditional recipe meat dumplings became different.

For real Siberian dumplings, at least four types of meat are required, - says Igor Shein, author of several books on the history of Siberian cuisine. - First, you need game. And both feathered and savory: duck, goose, black grouse, and with them - venison or sohatina. Since the meat of deer or elk is quite dry, you need to add something more fatty to it - pork or lamb. And finally, beef. Minced meat is made of all this, which is seasoned with onions, salt and pepper.

The dough for traditional Siberian dumplings was also kneaded in a special way - not on water, but on tea.

Why was it necessary? - Igor Shein continues the story. - The fact is that dumplings were molded in winter, when they could be stored in the cold. For this, special "rare" linen bags were used. In them, the dumplings gradually dried out, lost moisture, the fat in the minced meat was oxidized, and the taste of the meat, accordingly, spoiled. And tea contains antioxidants that slow down the process of fat oxidation and help keep the taste of meat intact. Another difference from modern recipe the fact that the dumplings were fried before freezing on butter... And instead of boiling them later, they were simply brewed with boiling water and kept under the lid for several minutes. I myself prepared dumplings in this way, and was amazed at the richness of their taste.

Siberian merchants came up with own version food fast food... Such food was a necessity for them: after all, inspecting their mines, sawmills and distilleries, they drove hundreds of miles away from home. They were often forced to dine in an open field, where the distance to the nearest housing was measured in days of travel.

The traditional Siberian cuisine was clearly subdivided into home and travel, - emphasizes Igor Shein. - Dumplings - classic example road food... Boil water - and in a few minutes a full meal is ready.

Merchant "fast food" was not at all limited to dumplings alone. On the road, they always took with them circles of frozen cabbage soup or borscht, icy rolls, which were stored in the yard on special poles, and even frozen milk. The standard lunch consisted of dumplings for the first, cabbage soup or porridge for the second, and tea or sbitna for the third. And they cooked them in a matter of minutes in one samovar.

Almost until the middle of the 20th century, special road samovars, divided into sectors inside, were widely used in Siberia, says Konstantin Karpukhin, director of the Museum of the History of the Krasnoyarsk Railway. “It was possible to cook several dishes at the same time in them, for example, soup, tea and porridge. And all this was prepared much faster than on open fire... Such samovars were originally used by coachmen, but then they firmly entered the merchant life.

Indeed, it is convenient: he chopped the cabbage soup with an ax, put it in a samovar, poured water for dumplings and tea in another compartment, threw cereals in the third, put a frozen roll on the samovar pipe, and after half an hour you can sit down at the table!

Fish bullshit

Despite the diversity meat treats, traditional Siberian cuisine is, first of all, fish meals... And a noble one. Anything that does not belong to sturgeon, whitefish and salmon, Siberians do not even consider fish. In the Yenisei north, burbot is still harvested for food for dogs, and ides, bream and magpies caught in the net are often given to pigs.

Good fish in Siberia is eaten raw or lightly salted - in this respect, Siberians, of course, are Asians, not Europeans. They believe that the taste of nelma or chir develops much better raw than, for example, a pie.

Siberian troika bird fish cuisine - this is stroganina, rubanina and sagudai. Stroganin - winter dish... A skin is removed from a whitefish, muksun or nelma with a "stocking", the front part of the head is chopped off with an ax so that it is convenient to rest it against a block or board, and then thin slices are cut from the fish in the direction from the tail to the head. They are dipped in salt, sometimes pepper and vinegar - and eaten right there.

A somewhat complicated version of this dish is rubanin. The fish is skinned and chopped small pieces straight with bones. Then the pieces of frozen fish are placed in a large bowl with thinly chopped onions and seasoned with salt and pepper. This is followed by the key operation: the bowl must be shaken thoroughly so that the contents are mixed. After a couple of minutes, the fish can be eaten.

For those who do not like fish with bones, there is a more laborious version of this dish called "splitting". The frozen fish is lightly beaten off with the butt of an ax until the skin begins to separate. They remove it and continue to pound the fish with the butt until a small crumb is obtained, from which all the bones are taken out. Then follow the old scheme: a bowl, salt, pepper and onion. You need to eat this dish quickly, until the fish thaws. In Western Siberia, a different name is adopted for splitting - "nonsense". So for a resident of Tomsk or Novosibirsk, “eating nonsense” does not mean “having a bad lunch”.

Restaurant chefs and food bloggers often confuse ruby \u200b\u200band cleaver with something else. traditional dish - Saguday.

- “Sagudat” in translation from the Nenets language means “to eat raw,” explains Igor Shein. - So a real sagudai is just a thinly sliced \u200b\u200blightly salted fish. The main thing is that she should be freshly caught. The indigenous peoples of the North, from whom the Russians adopted this dish, did not know either onions, no black pepper. Therefore, sugudai recipes that contain these ingredients cannot be considered authentic.

In fact, the main difference between sagudai and ruban is that in the first case the fish is slightly salted, and in the second it is pickled.

It's hard to believe, but any native Siberian will prefer a small fish called "tugunok" to sturgeon, taimen and even nelma. This is one of the smallest representatives of the whitefish order, in length it reaches only 10-15 cm. It is valued for its special aroma: properly salted tugunka smells of fresh cucumber.

In the 19th century, Sosva herring, as the tugunka was then called, was supplied to the royal table and in the best restaurants Petersburg and Moscow, - says Igor Shein. - It was fabulously expensive - several times more expensive than sterlet. However, in those days tugunka was salted in a different way. A special salmon ambassadorwhen the fish was covered with crushed ice.

Tea with a bite

Another similarity between Siberian cuisine and Asian cuisine is that any meal, be it breakfast, lunch or dinner, must end with tea. Here they drink tea "with a bite", that is, with shangas, pies, jam, honey, cheesecakes and other sweets. According to Igor Shein, the word "with a bite" has never been used in the western part of Russia.

Siberians had the opportunity to drink tea themselves high Quality, - continues Igor Shein, - because chinese teadelivered to Europe not by sea, but by land, was valued much higher. Respectively, the best varieties teas were sent to the west through Siberia. In European countries there was even such a term "Siberian tea", which was introduced into everyday life by Father Dumas, the author of the "Gastronomic Encyclopedia".

In the 19th century, the hierarchy of varieties siberian tea looked like this: the cheapest was brick made of rough bottom sheets tea bush, then went loose, for the production of which medium and a small number of top leaves were used, and the most expensive tea was flower.

Flower tea has nothing to do with flowers, says Igor Shein. “This is a common misconception that even professional historians often fall prey to. For example, in one monograph, where the analysis of customs documents of the 19th century was carried out, I literally read the following: “It is not clear why the Siberian flower tea was so expensive. That there are some special flowers in Siberia? Why are they better than those growing in the European part of Russia? " In fact, the words "flower tea" only mean that the tea is made from tips - the topmost buds on the bush. They look like unblown buds.

Both then and now, not everyone could afford tip tea, but Siberian merchants preferred it, ”concludes Konstantin Karpukhin.

Siberian cuisine was formed under the influence of ancient Russian culture. With the development of intensive foreign trade, the introduction of a monopoly on a number of goods (vodka, caviar, red fish, fish glue, honey, salt, hemp) from the 17th century Russian regional cuisines (Don, Ural, Siberian, Pomor) begin to form.

The rapid development of railway construction in Russia in the 70s of the 19th century brought the distant outskirts closer to the center. This led to the "discovery" of many regional old Russian dishes, quickly recognized nationally... Such were the Ural and Siberian dumplings, Far Eastern pink salmon and chum salmon caviar.

The main products that made up the diet of Siberians were those that were produced on their farm. Milk, meat, vegetables, eggs, products from cereals made up most of it. Eating food was associated with the need to observe fasting. Observed annually 4 posts lasting 130 days... All Wednesdays and Fridays were fast days, with the exception of holidays, when it was allowed to eat meat and dairy food. The main place on the table of Siberians borrowed bread, according to the consumption of which per capita our country has always ranked first in the world.

The first liquid dishes - soups... The assortment of soups - cabbage soup, stew, fish soup, pickles, hodgepodge, botvinia, okroshka, prison - continued to grow from the 18th to the 20th century. Different kinds Western European soups like broths, mashed soups, so-called filling soups with meat and cereals, they took root well thanks to the love of the Russian people for a hot liquid brew.

In the diet of old-time Siberians, who kept a lot of cattle, meat played an important role. It was usually cooked. The favorite dish of Siberians was dumplings, it was believed that the most delicious - "a mixture of three meats", that is, the minced meat had to be made from beef, pork and lamb. They also ate moose meat, as many old-timers hunted moose. For dinner, they often stewed lamb in the oven, fried piglets - "asoskov", that is, dairy. Jellied meat (jelly) was made from heads, legs, knees. For the winter, the Chaldons prepared beef sausages, and then, taking into account the experience of immigrants who had arrived from European Russia, they began to make them from pork. One of the types meat preparations there were hams that were salted and dried.

Were especially developed pies, that is, products in a dough casing from the very varied filling: from fish, meat, poultry and game, mushrooms, cottage cheese, vegetables, berries, fruits, from various grains in combination with fish, meat and mushrooms.

Fish has always been used in the cuisine of Siberians in countless forms: steam or steamed, boiled (boiled), body, that is, made in a special way from one fillet, boneless, but with skin, fried, repaired (filled with a filling of porridge, onions or mushrooms), stewed, aspic, baked in scales, baked in a pan in sour cream, salted (salted), dried, dried in the wind and the sun (roach) and dried in the oven (sushik). In Western Siberia, they ate raw frozen (stroganina). Was less common in Siberian folk cuisine until the middle of the 19th century smoked fish , which recently, on the contrary, has been widely used in three types: cold smoked, hot smoked and smoked-dried.

From vegetable crops Siberians grew pumpkin, turnip, carrot, beet, cabbage, cucumber. The plantings of potatoes were small, and a limited number of dishes were prepared from it. As a rule, Siberians fried potatoes, baked potato pancakes (cutlets from grated raw potatoes). Cabbage, beets, carrots were stewed with butter or put in pies. Cucumbers were salted for the winter, and in the summer ate with honey... Dishes such as salads have never been characteristic of Siberian cuisine; they appeared in Russia already in the 19th century as one of the borrowings from the West.

National Siberian delicacy since the 17th century was considered pine nuts and seeds (sunflower). Another delicacy was honey... Sweets were rare, but sometimes they bought for the holiday lollipops... The favorite and widespread drink was kvass with malt. For tea, herbs, leaves of whitehead, meadowsweet, currant were brewed. Cooked flour jelly, dairy, and berry starch. They often made kissel from viburnum.

The daily meal schedule was independent of the season. But in summer there was more dairy, and in winter there was more meat. Adults usually ate three times a day and children four.

There are many places in Irkutsk where our traditions are preserved and where you can taste real Siberian cuisine. You will find them through the directory of organizations in the "Lunch" section in the ""

When winter comes and freezing temperatures come, we often use the expression "Siberian frosts". Siberia for us is associated with severe northern weather conditions.

And this is one hundred percent true. The vast Siberian region extends over the territories of northeastern Eurasia. The Siberian expanses are limited in the west by the Ural Mountains, in the east by the Pacific Ocean, and in the north by the Arctic Ocean.

Nowadays Siberia is called the territory of the Russian Federation, although geographically and historically Siberia is a broader concept. Part of the territories of modern Kazakhstan and the entire Far East, these are the borders of Siberia.

Since ancient times, the Siberian territories have been inhabited by such northern peoples as: Yakuts, Tuvinians, Altaians, Dolgans, Shors, Siberian Tatars, Buryats, Nanai, Udege, Nenets, Khanty, Mansi and many others. The modern peoples of Siberia can be subdivided into several groups, depending on their ancestors - Turkic peoples, Mongol peoples, Tungus-Manchu, Samoyed and Finno-Ugric peoples.

The Chukchi, Itelmen and Koryaks are considered the most ancient peoples that inhabit Siberia. Such a variety of ancestors of today's Siberians indicates the rich and versatile culture of Siberia. Now it becomes clear how dishes of eastern peoples appeared among the recipes of Siberian cuisine.

On the one hand, Siberian cuisine dishes are similar to culinary traditions peoples of the North. On the other hand, Siberian cuisine is much more diverse. This is due primarily to the rich natural diversity of flora and fauna of Siberia.

The Siberian climate is harsh, winters are long, and summers are short, it's good that it's warm. And what is most important in Siberian frosts? Of course not to freeze. In order not to freeze in winter time Siberians are well insulated with clothing and nutritious high high-calorie meals Siberian cuisine.

The main ingredient of Siberian cuisine is meat and meat products. Meat dishes in Siberia are considered daily necessities, because meat energizes the human body. Until now, beef is often used in dishes of Siberian cuisine, and only then pork and lamb.

It so happened historically that it is interesting that Siberians did not breed pigs at home. These were more likely semi-wild pigs, which were released in the summer and domesticated in the fall, fed for a couple of months, then slaughtered. Usually the meat was baked in the oven. large chunks or whole carcasses.

Recipes of Siberian cuisine are famous, according to which housewives still cook delicious and unusual fresh, raw meat. Fresh or salted corned beef - characteristic feature cuisine of the northern peoples. In Siberian cuisine, it is customary to stew meat, fry, bake in the oven or in the oven, as well as over an open fire.

From meat offal (ears, tongues, hooves) they made cold and even aspic, smoked pork hams, did meat soups and stews. The most famous Siberian dish is meat dumplings. And nowadays, whole families of Siberians sit down to make dumplings.

Classical siberian recipe dumplings involves a combination of at least three types of meat in minced meat for dumplings. Fish dishes occupy a special place in Siberian cuisine. The fish was steamed, fried, boiled, dried, dried, and marinated and baked in an oven or over an open fire.

Siberian delicacy - light-salted fish from Lake Baikal Omul. This fish at all times was famous for its unique and delicate taste... The inhabitants of Siberia love to bake pies. Fillings for Siberian pies are made from meat, fish, as well as vegetables or berries.

Modern life leaves its mark on the primordial Siberian traditions. In our time, even Siberians prefer light Japanese sushi to heavy meat dishes.

Section:
Siberian cuisine, Siberian traditions
2nd page

The reason of Russians will grow in Siberia.
The fertile lands and the purest ecology of Siberia are optimal for special settlements, hard labor and camps, which in every possible way contribute to the enlightenment and strengthening of Russian minds.

FOOD OF RUSSIAN SIBERIANS
DISHES OF TRADITIONAL SIBERIAN CUISINE

Traditional food of Russian Siberians

With the beginning of the Russian development of Siberia, the traditional bread and flour diet of its inhabitants is also associated. However, their own agricultural development lagged behind commercial development, which created serious difficulties in providing Siberians with bread.

Until the last quarter of the 17th century. bread was delivered mainly from across the Urals. But gradually its own food base was established. For the Yenisei region crucial role played the beginning of the agricultural development of the southern regions in 1710-1740.

The pioneers of the region also experienced serious difficulties in reorienting food to hunting and fishing products. So, in the northern regions, the Russian pioneers were forced to bake cakes from crushed dry fish and caviar, and fish became the main product.

The technology of harvesting fish and its processing was adopted from the local population (yukola - dried fish, porsa - dried small fish, yurok - dried boneless). Salting was the main method of fish preparation. The fish was gutted, plastomed and salted without removing the scales at the place of fishing, in winter - frozen. So, M.F. Krivoshapkin wrote in 1857 that in the city of Yeniseisk "on the banks of the Yenisei, fish were stacked in woodpiles without any supervision."

Fished fish in huge amount... On the Angara alone, 2,500 poods were caught annually in pits!

Got widespread in Siberia and fish fat, almost never used in European Russia. It was cooked by melting fish pieces with a low water content in boilers. Fish oil was considered especially good when baking pies. And at a later time, fish is a traditional food product for Siberia, until now in old-timers' villages not a single festive table is complete without a fish pie.

The first Russian settlers actively included other gifts of Siberian nature in their diet. Wild onions, garlic, sarana, fireweed, flask, wild garlic were widely consumed as food. They cooked cabbage soup from a grass similar to rhubarb and called here "cabbage", or from grass, which the Russians called "borscht".

Of course, hunting products played a significant role in nutrition: for example, in the documents of the 17th-18th centuries. mention is made of bear meat, venison, sohatina, hare, partridge, hazel grouse, geese, etc.

With the development of their own farming, the main food product becomes rye bread... It was baked from sour dough, which in special wooden dishes ("Kvashonka", "deja") was fermented most often with the remains of the dough from the previous baking. Fermented, of course, with yeast, beer or leavened brew.

Barley (barley) flour was sometimes added to rye bread. Depending on the type of flour, the bread was divided into sieve and sieve. Bread was baked on a clean swept bottom of a Russian oven in the form of round rugs. In lean years, ground sarana, wild buckwheat ("kandyk") were added to bread, and in the North - fishmeal and even moss.

In addition to rye, spring and winter, barley, oats, buckwheat, peas, spelled were grown. All these cultures were used for making flour and further use as food in various dishes. So, from rye and barley, after germinating it, they made malt, and then brewed beer. Wheat was used to bake kalachi, grated and gritty (gritty flour - "only from the kindest wheat", premium flour).

Pies were considered the favorite Siberian dishes - more than fifty types of them were baked in Siberia. Pies could be hearth, from sour dough, on the hearth of the oven, and yarn (fried on a thick layer of butter), from sour or unleavened dough.

The pies were filled with fish, berries, meat, vegetables, cottage cheese, cabbage, eggs, bird cherry (both fish and bird cherry pies were especially loved by Siberians), stuffed with other dough, etc. The variety of types of pastries and pies made it possible to diversify table on both "modest" and fast days.

The main pie was "juicy": if it was stuffed on top (with cottage cheese, vegetables, bird cherry), poured with sour cream, then "shangi" was obtained.

"Fold" - stuffed pies pinched at the edges.

Chips ("brushwood") were also widespread - twisted figurines fried in oil made of unleavened dough.

The pies were served and how separate dish, and as "bites" to tea and as an obligatory addition to hot liquid dishes, moreover, to each - special. For fresh cabbage soup - a pie with buckwheat porridge; to sour_scham - with salted fish; to noodles - meat pie; to the ear - a pie with carrots.

Flour was used to prepare liquid dishes - talkers, grout and thick - porridge, salomat, kulagu, steaming them in a Russian oven. Siberians were especially fond of salomat: it was on every festive table... Were loved oatmeal oatmeal jelly, jelly from steamed liquid rye dough ("Wineskin").

Pancakes were baked everywhere, both from sour and unleavened dough, pancakes, millet and millet, oat and buckwheat, thin and hot.

Pancake pans were in great demand in Siberia different sizes", - noted in the Siberian customs books" of the 17th century. From whole and crushed grains, cereals were cooked, both everyday and for ritual purposes, "kutya"; made of bread "rye" various drinks.

It is necessary to dwell on meat food: it was immeasurably more important for Siberia than for European Russia. There, meat dishes were more of a festive meal, but here it was everyday. This was due not only to the widespread development of animal husbandry, but also to the vital need for meat food in a harsh climate.

Academician I.G. Gmelin, traveling in Siberia in the 40s. XVIII century., Noted that "food supplies are very cheap, excellent fish, meat and game - in abundance." Meat for food was fresh - "fresh", salted - "corned beef" and dried - "saggy".

In winter, the meat was dipped in water, allowed to freeze up and put in tubs, covered with snow. The meat was boiled, stewed, fried, baked in dough or, in large pieces, in a Russian oven. Meat dishes were varied: jelly, cold from tongues, ears and lips, pork hams, stews with meat, meat cabbage soup, roast meat, meat and vegetables, "kurnik", etc.

However, dumplings were and are still considered the favorite traditional dish of Siberians. NM Yadrintsev wrote about it this way: “Pelmeni are absorbed in incredible quantities. Meat is available to the peasant. " The whole family made dumplings. Men usually chopped meat in troughs, women kneaded dough, children rolled it out, and sculpted it together. Then they were dried in an oven or frozen and stored in chests. (It is believed that the word "pelmen" came from the Permian "pelmen" and was then brought to Siberia). Dumplings were eaten with butter, sour cream, vinegar.

Many dishes are humble and lean table ate and washed down with kvass and beer. So, grated radish, steamed vegetables, grated berries, salted onions, jelly were poured with kvass.

Tea was widespread in Siberia along with kvass. Tea was supplied from Central Asia and from China. Basically, Siberians used "brick" tea. So, in Eastern Siberia, various drinks were brewed from it: "zaturan", with the addition of salt, milk and flour fried in oil, with the addition of crushed wheat grains... Siberians especially loved to drink tea with milk.

AP Stepanov, the first governor of the Yenisei province, wrote: “You can find samovars in every village. Most of the peasants drink tea with sugar (with a bite). " And NM Yadrintsev noted that "Siberian tea is always accompanied by" bites ", pies and other things."

Traditional for Siberia were "berry waters", infusions on currant leaves, herbs, honey drinks... Purely Siberian, old drink there was "cedar milk" made from crushed pine nuts.

Gardening also developed in Siberia, which made it possible to use traditional Russian vegetables for food. For the whole year, peasants and townspeople grew and stocked carrots, rutabagas, beets, radishes, cabbage, peas, cucumbers, pumpkin, onions, and garlic.

Poppy, mint, sage, anise were sown from spices.

Potatoes became especially important for Siberians. It is believed that it began to be planted here in the first half of the 19th century, but in the "Topographic Description ..." it is noted that potatoes were grown in the Tobolsk district already at the end of the 18th century.

Peasants added turnips to porridge, steamed in the oven, stuffed pies with it, ate steamed and baked with wort.

Cabbage for the winter was salted or fermented, both shredded and whole cabbage.

Potatoes were boiled, added to vegetable and cereal soups, in cabbage soup, or used boiled as a seasoning for dishes. Very rarely, potatoes were fried with butter or lard.

Peas were used to prepare chowders for a lean meal.

In some places Siberians were engaged in melon growing. In Minusinsk uyezd, peasants cultivated melons and watermelons everywhere.

Pine nuts were stockpiled everywhere throughout the winter. The cedar forests were one of the most valuable communal lands. Oil was squeezed out of pine nuts, and most importantly, nuts were a constant treat at evenings and gatherings. The oil was squeezed mostly from hemp and also from flax.

Of the dairy dishes, cottage cheese, sour cream, and cheeses were most used. The cheeses were made from cottage cheese with the addition of eggs and aging under pressure. But it should be noted that Siberian cows were unproductive and gave an average of 3-4 milk cakes. In winter, milk was frozen in "circles", it was convenient to store them or take them on the road. Sometimes milk was mixed with raw eggs before freezing.

On the table of the Siberian there were mushrooms and berries prepared for future use. Mushrooms were boiled, salted, fried. It is curious to note that in many places only milk mushrooms or porcini mushrooms fell under the concept of "mushrooms". Mushrooms were also used as a filling for pies.

Berries: currants, raspberries, strawberries, strawberries, honeysuckle, bird cherry, blueberries - eaten fresh, dried for future use, added to flour dishes... Everywhere dried bird cherry was ground into flour and added to baked goods or used to cook jelly. Lingonberry occupied a special place in the diet of Siberians.

Thus, food in Siberia was eclectic, combining Russian traditions with new types of food and new Siberian peoples. Many Siberian dishes and methods of their preparation subsequently spread throughout Russia.

The most important condition for a daily meal according to Christian custom was the observance of the traditions of the feast. At the beginning and at the end of breakfast, lunch, dinner, there was a prayer.

PRAYER BEFORE EATING FOOD.
Eyes on You, the Lord hope, and You give them food in a timely manner, You open Your generous hand and nourish everything that lives with your blessings.

PRAYER AFTER EATING FOOD.
We thank you, Christ our God, for filling us with your earthly blessings, do not deprive us of your heavenly kingdom.

Bread took a special, sacred place in human nutrition, as well as in everyday rituals. Bread and salt were handed over to guests of honor; bread represented a life-giving principle. In Siberia, they said - not to knead dough, but to "create" bread.

The process of baking bread was equal to the creation of the world; sacred elements participate in it - fire, grain, water. "In the evening the rug sleeps, it cannot be cut." A whole (unopened) loaf of bread could only be cut in the morning. Bread personified home, life.

Speaking about the peculiarities of the food of the Russian old-timers of Siberia, it is appropriate to cite a number of statements by researchers of this region.

I.G. Gmelin: “Grain is very cheap here, as well as bulls and pigs. The river is rich in fish. Sturgeons are fat, so there is finger-thick fat in the cauldrons where they are boiled. Game: elk, deer, roe deer, hares, etc., from birds - pheasants, partridges, swans, wild geese, storks - all this is cheaper than beef. " (From the description of the market in Tobolsk in the 18th century.)

S.P. Krasheninnikov: “Going in winter for sables, fishermen take 30 poods of rye and 1 pood per person wheat flour, and they carry the dough with them or make it on the spot. And if the leaven and the thick are spent, then many fall ill and die, they are forced to eat unleavened bread. They store the leaven in a special birch bark vessel - "burda", which is very cherished, because all their grub is in bread and kvass. "

A.P. Stepanov: “Without exception, all the peasants of the Yenisei province use sieve bread. The poor white bread there is every Sunday, every holiday, fish 3-4 times a week, cabbage soup is whitened with sour cream, egg porridge with milk. Medium-income peasants have cabbage soup with meat every day, liquid oatmeal with milk or salad with butter; sometimes fried lamb, fish several times a week. On holidays, they increase their table with jelly and pancakes or waffles. The rich man's table is made of similar supplies, but in more, he always has 4 dishes and soft (ie white bread) every day, and fish pies and fish are more famous. Dried strawberries and they eat wild strawberries boiled with honey. "

A.P. Belyaev: “The owners, ordinary peasants - Siberians, received us very cordially; the same neat hostesses immediately set the table and set the food. Imagine our surprise when these dishes - stew, beef, porridge, fried game, cake rings with jam - turned out to be up to six dishes; excellent frothy kvass was served to us in green glass jugs made by Konovalov, and when we left and wanted to pay for lunch, the owners were offended, saying: “What are you, gentlemen? We, thank God, have something to submit. "

Thus, other conditions of life, prosperity, prosperity, security made it possible for old-timers - Siberians to live a well-fed life, which supported their health, efficiency, endurance.

* * * * *

When the driver and I entered the hut, the owners were already sitting at the table and sipping cabbage soup ... siberian cabbage soup, except for water, meat, salt and thick cereals, there are no impurities. Putting cabbage, onions and in general any kind of greens is considered completely unnecessary. The cabbage soup was followed by jelly, to which was served mustard, unfamiliar to our (i.e., Great Russian) common people, diluted with kvass. Then there was not exactly boiled or not fried, but rather a steamed pig, slightly salted and very fatty. The fourth course was open pie (stretch) with salted pike. They ate only the filling in the pie; edges and spodka are not accepted. Finally, there was something like pancakes with cottage cheese, fried in butter.

The bread is exclusively wheat ... Kvass, and even very good, in Siberia can be found in every decently built house. Where bread is baked from rye flour, there it is always sown on a sieve. It is considered reprehensible to use a sieve.

Thank God we are not pigs! - say the Siberians. For sieve bread, a lot goes to new settlers who have a strong addiction to it.

(Turbin S. and Starozhil. Country of exile and disappeared people: Siberian essays. SPb., - 1872. - S. 77-78.)

DISHES OF TRADITIONAL SIBERIAN CUISINE

Mix buckwheat flour with wheat flour, dilute with milk. Add eggs, ghee, yeast, salt, sugar.
To cook yeast dough, dilute it to the desired thickness with liquid cream.
Bake pancakes in a hot frying pan, on the coals of the oven.

Freeze slightly equal weight pieces of pork, beef, game and bacon.
Then chop the meat and lard together as finely as possible with a chop in a trough with onions, garlic, stirring constantly.
Rinse the chopped mass well with a crush, salt, pepper, season with milk or liquid fresh cream.
Rinse the minced meat again and mix well.
Knead a hard dough and let it settle.
Dumplings to sculpt small, in "one bite".

Fry buckwheat flour in a pan with the addition of butter.
Brew with boiling water or boiling milk.
Add finely chopped onion, finely chopped bacon, salt.
Stir well, cover and, wrapping the pot with a towel, evaporate for some time on the bench.
After sucking, cut into portions and serve, pouring oil, gravy (sauce) on each portion. Squeeze the soaked oats well.
Add salt to the resulting liquid and cook over the fire, stirring, until thick.
Add to boiled milk or cream. Mix.
You can add a little oil to the jelly.
Depending on the density, the jelly is served liquid or cut into pieces, washed down with milk or yogurt.

Leave some of the dough from the bread.
Pour the dough with water and leave for a while, having previously resolved well. When a precipitate appears, drain the water from above.
So repeat twice.
The sediment in Siberia was called "silt".
Pour the resulting "silt" with boiling water or boiling milk - you get a thick, very delicious jelly - a wineskin.

VAREVO is a kind of semi-finished product for "stew" in the mowing, in the forest. on the way.
To prepare the brew, vegetables, minced meat, and onions were fried in a frying pan in fat or oil.
Then they poured in, stirring, maximum amount, pre-fried - in another pan, flour.
Balls were rolled from the thick mass and dried in an oven.
They could be stored in a cool, dry place.
When preparing the "soup" it was enough to dip the balls into boiling water and boil.
Very high-calorie was prepared from the "brew" hearty dish fast food.

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Siberian dishes 100 years ago January 3rd, 2016

This is how you buy dumplings in the store, eat and have no idea how old and varied this dish is in the past. I myself am not very whimsical in food, but it is very interesting to read about such traditions of old Russia. As has already happened, in central Russia an indispensable attribute of a New Year's dinner is the Olivier salad (here we are), while in Siberia, dumplings play this role. A rare festive feast here is complete without local northern fish - at least on the table there will be a plate with lightly salted omul or grayling. Almost every family has their own recipes for traditional Siberian dishes.

But a significant part of the Siberian culinary heritage has been lost today. With the help of traditional cuisine experts, Russian Planet has restored old recipes and dispelled several popular culinary myths.

Pelmeni replaced the first, second and even dessert for Siberians. You can read about this from Gilyarovsky in the series of essays "Moscow and Muscovites". He describes how ten of the richest Siberian gold miners had a dinner that consisted entirely of dumplings with various fillings. And for sweets, dumplings with fruit boiled in pink champagne were served. A total of 2.5 thousand dumplings were eaten.

A century later, a lot has changed. The recipe for traditional meat dumplings has changed.

For real Siberian dumplings, at least four types of meat are required, - says Igor Shein, author of several books on the history of Siberian cuisine. - First, you need game. And both feathered and savory: duck, goose, black grouse, and with them - venison or sohatina. Since the meat of deer or elk is quite dry, you need to add something more fatty to it - pork or lamb. And finally, beef. Minced meat is made of all this, which is seasoned with onions, salt and pepper.

The dough for traditional Siberian dumplings was also kneaded in a special way - not on water, but on tea.

Why was it necessary? - Igor Shein continues the story. - The fact is that dumplings were molded in winter, when they could be stored in the cold. For this, special "rare" linen bags were used. In them, the dumplings gradually dried out, lost moisture, the fat in the minced meat was oxidized, and the taste of the meat, accordingly, spoiled. And tea contains antioxidants that slow down the oxidation of fats and help keep the taste of meat intact. Another difference from the modern recipe is that the dumplings were fried in butter before freezing. And instead of boiling them later, they were simply brewed with boiling water and kept under the lid for several minutes. I myself prepared dumplings in this way, and was amazed at the richness of their taste.

Siberian merchants have come up with their own version of instant food. Such food was a necessity for them: after all, inspecting their mines, sawmills and distilleries, they drove hundreds of miles away from home. They were often forced to dine in an open field, where the distance to the nearest housing was measured in days of travel.

The traditional Siberian cuisine was clearly subdivided into home and travel, - emphasizes Igor Shein. - Dumplings are a classic example of road food. Boil water - and in a few minutes a full meal is ready.

Merchant "fast food" was not at all limited to dumplings alone. On the road, they always took with them circles of frozen cabbage soup or borscht, icy rolls, which were stored in the yard on special poles, and even frozen milk. The standard lunch consisted of dumplings for the first, cabbage soup or porridge for the second, and tea or sbitna for the third. And they cooked them in a matter of minutes in one samovar.

Almost until the middle of the 20th century, special road samovars, divided into sectors inside, were widely used in Siberia, - says Konstantin Karpukhin, director of the Museum of the History of the Krasnoyarsk Railway. “It was possible to cook several dishes at the same time in them, for example, soup, tea and porridge. And all this was prepared much faster than on an open fire. Such samovars were originally used by coachmen, but then they firmly entered the merchant's life.

Indeed, it is convenient: he chopped the cabbage soup with an ax, put it in a samovar, poured water for dumplings and tea in another compartment, threw cereals in the third, put a frozen roll on the samovar pipe, and after half an hour you can sit down at the table!

Fish bullshit

Despite the variety of meat treats, traditional Siberian cuisine is primarily fish dishes. And a noble one. Anything that does not belong to sturgeon, whitefish and salmon, Siberians do not even consider fish. In the Yenisei north, burbot is still harvested for dog food, and ides, bream and magpies caught in the net are often given to pigs.

Good fish in Siberia is eaten raw or lightly salted - in this respect, Siberians, of course, are Asians, not Europeans. They believe that the taste of nelma or chir develops much better raw than, for example, a pie.

The bird-three of Siberian fish cuisine is stroganina, rubanina and sagudai. Stroganina is a winter dish. The skin is removed from the whitefish, muksun or nelma with a "stocking", the front part of the head is chopped off with an ax so that it is convenient to rest it against a block of wood or a board, and then thin slices are cut from the fish in the direction from the tail to the head. They are dipped in salt, sometimes pepper and vinegar - and eaten right there.

A somewhat complicated version of this dish is rubanin. The fish is freed from the skin and chopped into small pieces right with the bones. Then the pieces of frozen fish are put in a large bowl with thinly chopped onions and seasoned with salt and pepper. This is followed by the key operation: the bowl must be shaken thoroughly so that the contents are mixed. After a couple of minutes, the fish can be eaten.

For those who do not like fish with bones, there is a more laborious version of this dish called "splitting". The frozen fish is lightly beaten off with the butt of an ax until the skin begins to separate. They remove it and continue to pound the fish with the butt until a small crumb is obtained, from which all the bones are taken out. Then follow the old scheme: a bowl, salt, pepper and onion. You need to eat this dish quickly, until the fish thaws. In Western Siberia, a different name is adopted for splitting - "nonsense". So for a resident of Tomsk or Novosibirsk, “eating nonsense” does not mean “having a bad lunch”.

Restaurant chefs and food bloggers often confuse ruby \u200b\u200band chop with another traditional dish, sagudai.

- “Sagudat” in translation from the Nenets language means “to eat raw,” explains Igor Shein. - So a real sagudai is just thinly sliced \u200b\u200blightly salted fish. The main thing is that she should be freshly caught. The indigenous peoples of the North, from whom the Russians adopted this dish, did not know either onions or black pepper. Therefore, sugudai recipes that contain these ingredients cannot be considered authentic.

In fact, the main difference between sagudai and ruban is that in the first case the fish is slightly salted, and in the second it is pickled.

It's hard to believe, but any native Siberian will prefer a small fish called "tugunok" to sturgeon, taimen and even nelma. This is one of the smallest representatives of the whitefish order, in length it reaches only 10-15 cm. It is valued for its special aroma: properly salted tugunka smells of fresh cucumber.

In the 19th century, Sosva herring, as the tugunka was then called, was supplied to the tsar's table and to the best restaurants in St. Petersburg and Moscow, says Igor Shein. - It was fabulously expensive - several times more expensive than sterlet. However, in those days tugunka was salted in a different way. A special salmon ambassador was used when the fish was covered with crushed ice.

Tea with a bite

Another similarity between Siberian cuisine and Asian cuisine is that any meal, be it breakfast, lunch or dinner, must end with tea. Here they drink tea "with a bite", that is, with shangas, pies, jam, honey, cheesecakes and other sweets. According to Igor Shein, the word "with a bite" has never been used in the western part of Russia.

Siberians had the opportunity to drink tea of \u200b\u200bthe highest quality, - continues Igor Shein, - since Chinese tea, delivered to Europe not by sea, but by land, was valued much higher. Accordingly, the best varieties of tea were sent to the west through Siberia. In European countries, there was even such a term "Siberian tea", which was introduced into everyday life by Father Dumas, the author of the "Gastronomic Encyclopedia".

In the 19th century, the hierarchy of varieties of Siberian tea looked like this: the cheapest was brick, made from the coarse lower leaves of the tea bush, then loose tea, for the production of which were used medium and small amount of the upper leaves, and the most expensive tea was flower tea.

Flower tea has nothing to do with flowers, says Igor Shein. “This is a common misconception that even professional historians often fall prey to. For example, in one monograph, where the analysis of customs documents of the 19th century was carried out, I literally read the following: “It is not clear why Siberian flower tea was so expensive. That there are some special flowers in Siberia? Why are they better than those growing in the European part of Russia? " In fact, the words "flower tea" only mean that the tea is made from tips - the topmost buds on the bush. In appearance, they resemble unblown buds.

Both then and now, not everyone could afford tip tea, but Siberian merchants preferred it, ”concludes Konstantin Karpukhin.

Let's continue with you about interesting food: look at, and here. Let's remember also. Well, here it is The original article is on the site InfoGlaz.rf The link to the article this copy was made from is