The show is a separate article of our modern culture, heavily spoiled by individual representatives, and the genre is considered sooo low. Here we still have not all the backward segments of the population and TV shows are considered worthy entertainment, and even if someone gets a reality show on a flash drive, they will look at you like Olya Buzova. Therefore, I watch all the seasons of "Hell's Kitchen" alone, and there is no one to lend a hand (s).

And the show is wonderful.

Ukraine mae talent, we know. The idea is gorgeous, and it is pure and innocent - no one searches in the spring for the corpses of children with the help of magic stones and daggers, no one fucks live, no one needs to beat each other's faces to be shown you. You just need to cook - that's all.
Culinary programs are already hypnotic spectacles for me: what could be more mesmerizing than the way someone beautifully and cleverly prepares my main love in life - (not, not Jamie) food. And then there is a competitive show with contests, master classes, and dinners! I'm licking.

Aram Mikhalych, a hellish host, a famous St. Petersburg restaurateur without education, said that with the help of "Infernal Kitchen" he hopes to instill respect for the profession. After all, we, in fact, associate bursa with a cook first of all, and only then - Europeans in hats. And when you look at them - it's a song, people are creating, not cooking. And I'm not even talking about venerable chefs and sous-chefs at master classes (the way Jaire Laurier just peppers meat - that's how people don't dance ballet) - ordinary people are more amazed: a twenty-year-old boy Sasha Nepop, who creates real masterpieces in twenty minutes , the winner of the first Ukrainian "Kitchen", garage rock musician Yura Kondratyuk, who worked in a pizzeria, the winner of our first "Kitchen" Semyon, by sight - a typical graduate of the very same school, preparing such elegant things that his jaw drops. Kitchen is primarily about intuition, not the ability to chop carrots by standards.

For me, as for an ordinary viewer, this is a huge layer of useful information. Huge. Starting with the elementary things about the fact that wasabi and ginger are not a seasoning, but a disinfectant, and that julienne and tartare are not mushrooms in a cocotte maker and sauce, and ending with the fact that your brains in your kitchen start to think completely differently. Now you can no longer eat, as we ate all these twenty years before - tired. Hence all these avocados with arugula instead of icons, and tons of plates in the instragram. Even the frying does not rise up to make a hand - so much the scoop and canteens were sick of everyone. Everyone already wants beautiful, light, as simple and delicious food as possible - and in "Hell's Kitchen" they strive to make only such food. And they teach you to do just that every day. As the Odessa chef and restaurateur Savva Libkin says at the master class: "What is the chef's task? - not to spoil anything. If you take meat, you must give the meat, if you take fish, give the fish." It's brilliant, I think. I think in exactly the same way, that's why I am pleased to watch the program, where the most terrible curse is considered "meat in French", and sous-chef Jaire, looking at the many hours of efforts of the villager Marina in the form of stuffed pike, says only one thing: "Ugh ... ".

Well, the contests themselves, of course. Here is the task - make me borscht (pancakes / dumplings). What is easier. And as a result, you gaze with all your eyes at sixteen (!) Different borscht, one cooler than the other. Prepare a restaurant dish for 400 rubles, tomorrow - prepare a pizza that could be sold for a thousand hryvnia. Or a potato dish that could also be served in an expensive restaurant - well, how, how ?! Quoting Kondratyuk: "Potatoes - what about potatoes? Well, I x * d knows him ...". But they do the same. And they do it very, very cool. Observing, you begin to understand much better what is with what and where, and how much. Not to mention the fact that there, in passing, they show recipes for Italian ravioli with sauce inside, or Russian real daily soup. After such spectacles, you really start to treat food with respect, according to Vysotskaya: “I’m better not eating in any way than badly” - it becomes more and more difficult to stuff the herring under a fur coat ...

Well, about the show itself: don't talk about Ramsay, I like ours more. There are two seasons of the Ukrainian "Kitchen" - of course, the Slavic brothers can be watched without titles, only inserts in Ukrainian, and the presenters and participants speak Russian. Although for fifteen episodes I already seem to speak Ukrainian very well). There is one more Russian season, now the second comes out on Thursdays. And the third Ukrainian will start in the spring. In all seasons, 15 episodes, judges: restaurateur Sergei Gusovsky, critics Daria Tsivina and Yulia Vysotskaya. Participants - I will not even list anyone, there are such stars that it is simply hard to believe that someone can think like that in cooking. It is to think in the first place, and not to do.

WELL. AND OF COURSE.
The modern female spectator will not be suitable for a spectacle without fap moments per kilometer). I have them. The host himself, Aram Mikhalych, is a very charismatic person, and all the cooks who come to him and whom he brings up are very interesting people. Again, the men in the kitchen - what could be more beautiful. They fry meat, knead dough and salad with their hands, use the same hands to spread the thinnest transparent tomato chips, turn the pasta in a frying pan, and again endlessly fry and fry the meat, and taste it with their hands. It's very, very beautiful.
But Jaire Laurier, his sous-chef, who gives master classes and directs the participants at the evening daily dinner at the restaurant, is just some kind of diamond. An evil, unrestrained tattooed Frenchman, despising both men and women in the kitchen, with golden hands and a beautiful face ("Brad Pitt" is a nickname among the participants)). Yells, swears, calls names, throws food and pans, wins all paintballs and races, makes incredible faces. And most importantly, he cooks masterly.
PS. And he is red, red! And he has an accent!

Jerome is the new name of the French restaurant "Entrecote", which was opened three years ago. In 2012, its owner, Aram Mnatsakanov, a famous restaurateur and TV presenter, renamed the establishment, naming it after the chef Jerome Laurier.

Together with the name, the interior and the kitchen were updated. Only the location remained the same - at the corner of Bolshaya Morskaya and Gorokhovaya. The list of dishes has expanded significantly, becoming absolutely cosmopolitan - burgers, borscht and Olivier salad coexist with duck leg confit and mussels in white wine. However, the main thing is that now it is not a restaurant at all. At the very least, they position it as a universal gastronomic bar space.

As for the interiors of the institution, a little youthful "hooliganism" was added to the previous impression of the harsh Middle Ages. Stone vaulted ceilings, dark walls and cold light now coexist with white spreading oaks with downcast owls, large-winged ducks, imperturbable zebras and other designer pranks. And all to the fact that now the organizers of the renovated restaurant position themselves as an institution for young and creative people.

Chef of the restaurant Jerome Laurier

Despite the deliberate simplicity and the desire for ease of being, as in all restaurants of the Probka chain, prices in Jerome are not particularly democratic. The average bill is approaching 2,000 rubles, and a glass of aromatic wine will cost an average of 500 rubles.

One of the most notable consequences of the transformation of Entrecote into Jerome has been the revamped menu. It is simply impossible not to notice the Junk food section. First of all, because the shawarma with chicken, the hamburger and the tempting offer under the "asterisk" stating that, at the client's request, the hamburger loaf is replaced with fresh iceberg lettuce leaves are unusually pleasing and at the same time shocking.

Ultimately, the restaurant turned into a kind of gastronomic loft - in the manner of the popular institutions of this kind in old Europe: two separate rooms, a bar and perfect freedom of action for visitors. So we can say that the rebranding significantly expanded the consumer range and made the existence of this institution easier.

The address: Bolshaya Morskaya Street, 25/11
Telephone: 314-64-43
Average check: 1400 rubles
Opening hours: Mon-Wed - from 09:00 to 00:00, from Thu-Fri - 09:00 to 02:00, Sat - from 10:00 to 02:00,
Sun - from 10:00 to 00:00

Photos courtesy of Jerome

The third season of the hellish culinary show "Hell's Kitchen" on the TV channel is being prepared for filming. The editors set up the scenery, and the main presenter of the project, Aram Mnatsakanov, having taken some rest from filming the program "On Knives", is already carefully and attentively elects the following members.

Aram Mnatsakanov: looking for professionals, writing a book and preparing Olivier

"I work tirelessly. Until Season 3 of Hell's Kitchen, I'm 150% ready."

As for the participants, the hellish chef promises to spend much more time on the selection. The main goal is to find interesting people and good chefs. The Hell's Kitchen team will focus on professional chefs. However, lovers also have a chance become part of the third season.

"We will give a chance. If there are bright amateurs who cook very well and understand the processes of professional cuisine, we can take them. But the main casting, of course, must be professional."

Aram Mnatsakanov is waiting for "Hell's Kitchen" for people who love to cook and cannot live without it. People who want incredible new experiences in their lives.

"I can promise one thing - it will change their lives. All the participants who were on the show" Hell's Kitchen "for the first two seasons, they all changed their lives! In 90% of these people, their lives have changed dramatically!"

Infernal Chef maintains relations with the graduates of Hell's Kitchen For example, he even invited Gia Khuchua to be a sous-chef.

"Gia is working with me, in my team, on a new Russian project and will work on a new Ukrainian project. He will be one of the Sous-chefs. On the new project, we will have three Sous-chefs, not two."

Aram Mnatsakanov shared his non-culinary plans. It turns out that his second book is coming soon. Recall that the first is called "Il Grappolo. History, recipes, travel" and tells about Italy, where it is better to eat, stay and how to get there.

"The second book will contain Provence, Spain and Italy. Three travels and recipes."

After the release of the second book, in the future, Aram Mikhailovich hopes to visit Georgia to reveal its delicious corners to his fans.

Jérôme LORIER promises even more challenging tasks for the participants of Hell's Kitchen

Jerome Laurier is a friend and colleague of Aram Mnatsakanov, the permanent chef of the Hell's Kitchen show both in business and in the show. In life, Jerome and Aram travel countries between filming projects, Jerome memorizes the best recipes in order to reproduce them later in the chef's restaurants. At "Hell's Kitchen" he is a sous-chef. That is, he gives instructions to the participants, tells how and what to cook in order not to anger the chef, shares with them almost all his secrets, and it is not surprising that later he is friends with many of them. Monsieur Laurier will also culinary mentor new entrants in the third season of the hottest show.

Looking back on the first two seasons, he says that the members get better and more professional each season:

"I think we will challenge them with more challenging cooking tasks. The criteria will increase to their culinary skills even more!"

Jerome is a connoisseur of European cuisine, he does not cook Ukrainian, but after a while of his stay in Ukraine during the filming of two seasons of "Hell's Kitchen" he already managed to find his favorite dishes among Ukrainian cuisine:

"Of course, this is lard. I love it very much! But, of course, cheese cakes from Vova (Vladimir Yaroslavsky is the sous-chef of" PC ")! As for borscht, I like Ukrainian borsch more than Russian, but in general I don't really like beets ".

The difference between Russian and Ukrainian borscht for Jerome is that Ukrainians put more meat in borscht, while Russians put more fruit in borscht, so his meaty soul is drawn to Ukraine more in this case.

Vladimir Yaroslavsky announces a restaurant with favorite dishes of Aram Mnatsakanov

Help Aram and Jerome in the show choose the best and teach them how to cook better, for the second season in a row there will be talented chef Vladimir Yaroslavsky (sous-chef of the show).

Until recently, Vladimir was the chef of a 5-star hotel in the center of Kiev, but now Vladimir devotes 100% of his time to working with Aram Mnatsakanov and even promises a surprise - the opening of a restaurant where you can taste the hellish chef's favorite dishes.

"Yes, we work in a company called" Aram Mikhailovich's Company ". So far, you can taste our cuisine only in Russia. But, perhaps, soon we will open our first restaurant in Ukraine. And Aram Mikhailovich's favorite dishes will be there, for sure!"

Vladimir maintains relations with many members of Hell's Kitchen. For example, with Anel Redelbach, Alexander Nepopa, Alexander Yankovsky.

"We communicate with Dasha Grositskaya. She has already begun to cook deliciously, Jerome and I celebrate this. No, she still knew how to cook. But for me there is such a concept that when a person is young and just grows up, she makes explosive dishes, in which very - a lot of taste, too. And we like simpler, understandable dishes. "

I won't talk about the interior and the sign: nothing changed... Probably few restaurants can boast of such well-deserved veteran tables, scratched by six hundred sets of guests' claws (specifically my table, I do not generalize). I will not tell what I have already said. About "news", new people, new beds. All past attempts at alterations did not touch me, "Entrecote" is entrecote. Was. Even with self-promoted Jerome Laurier, Aram's favorite, whose name the restaurant is named after, and "junk food" on the menu. And then he went ...

When a girl is asked about reconcept, after his own proposal "do you know about the changes?", answers "we have hydroponics", you start to think that this was all. The fifth attempt to "reconcept" the most unsuccessful of the conditionally working, the institution of Aram Mikhailovich. Fifth attempt to sell sturgeon as new and fresh. Half of the "empire" has closed, and this premises clearly do not want to give up. Leapfrog chefs, "Hell's Kitchens", names, meat and junk food "junk food", so called unhealthy hot dogs and burgers ... Nothing happened. I got used to not reacting to the next press release “but we have everything new again, now we are a Caribbean squirrel canteen for lovely ladies”. Let them work, they are on their own, I am on my own: do not run into every reincarnation? This is all written in order to emphasize the importance of "new news", albeit under the old name of AM. Distracted from the girl. I make a surprised face: "that's all"? "No, we still have a chef coming out to all the guests." Straight to everyone? "To everyone, to everyone, you can even ask him on request." And it fits. Service... That's tricky. They are all cute and friendly, even too sweet and suspicious, but when a girl takes an order, not even a joke begins. I dictated, understood, did not change the order. Five minutes later, “what do you want, what kind of soup. I DO NOT UNDERSTAND...". Reminded. They brought a salad ... "And I wanted to clarify (SPECIFY, gentlemen!) You wanted oats or veal cheeks?" A joke is a funny adventure, you don't even know how to react. The rest is fine.

Second day... Meeting - half: undress, but neither greet, nor escort to the hall, the oncoming waiters make no attempt. The Anton & Andrey restaurant, which I have come to love, has turned into an old Aramov restaurant, what has closed? Well, I'm decent, disciplined, I'm just not used to walking around the restaurant like in a hypermarket, so I sit on the first chair from the entrance. The boy of the second day does not confuse the order, he remembers, he knows stop. There are no complaints here.

Lyrics of digressions... Five years ago, I was talking about foreign chefs in Russia. That they are not the best, most of them are those who have not found themselves at home and who have not been invited to Tokyo or New York. They went for the money, because the Russian money paid in Russia, 200,000, was about six to seven thousand dollars for ten years in a row. Now, on the contrary, there is only a quarter left. And not only because it is already 2,300 euros, with additional costs, no longer a cake. There are those who have fallen in love with the country. The bad word "love", too broad ... Someone has something "fuse", who really began to understand the country. Someone from a hack on a temporary hack, until he is called to London, will raise money and dump it in the country he dreams of when he lies that he really likes the cold and nesting dolls, has become his own. Let for a while. When the days of our clever people, who invited the British to cook borscht in a five-star hotel, have passed, for the idiots who wanted to eat borscht for 4000 pre-crisis rubles, I'm not joking, and beets cannot cost so much, which means they must be chopped by an Englishman with the rank of Sir. "We are not some kind of plebeians, but we want borscht." I then wrote that I was very sorry for Michael Jackson - he died. Otherwise, he would definitely have been invited to Russia in those crazy years to cook borscht.

Menu, for AM, twenty to thirty percent below the expected price level. This is a plus. This is without a daily discount, 15%, which, unfortunately, did not get both times. A good division into cold dishes and hot dishes: for the menu of the “sect of fans of the“ / ”sign, this is a plus. Carried away by a simple listing of products through the "/", the meaning of the right choice, this burden imposed on the guest, dissolves. This is good for a set, where the chef chose for the guest, how the sequence of paintings at the exhibition and the content is not determined by the visitor. The menu is great!

I will argue a lot. Someone will think that it is disapproving. But this does not change the fact that there is a place with the ART of cooking on board. Where there is something to discuss. There are no more than ten such places. Others are also needed to discuss whether the lasagne is burnt in the bolognese and whether there is enough cream in the carbonara. It's different ...

Vitello tonatto (520 rubles) do not believe anyone, only I will tell you the truth - great. And all the notes of a classic dish, and completely redesigned. In addition to thin slices of roast beef, in contrast, thick plates of chic "pre-war" tuna with a classic sauce. Bliss from taste and idea. About which I read, read ... and still bliss.

Ceviche salmon (560 rubles) - spicy, powerful, "non-seviche". The sweet potato only entertains - there is not much of it, but the cubes are very similar to salmon - just like the idea of \u200b\u200bthe "Berezutsk set": "similar on the outside, different on the inside." Why is it "non-sevichevo"? Even if there was a citrus sour note, dear yuzu, everything was absorbed into the elastic cube of fatty salmon, and I want balance, confrontation and victory equal to spicy and sour, the sensation of marinade, even nominal, and not just the result of coloring the product with it. Very tasty. It could also be very cool. The expensive yuzu soaked in the cubes and hid.

Beef tartare (490 rubles) - those who love complex, but extremely calm tartars will like it. Against the background of everything sweet or neutral in it, meat itself, fat-sweet sour cream, edamame beans, nothing but olive oil, there is no attention-grabbing. Again, this is a very original dish, probably even more author's than "squirrel meat tartare" or "baked marshmallow tartare". Carry your chili pepper, Ruth taught me.

Salad with pastrami (370 rubles) - this is the dish I want to see everyone. Maybe you like it, maybe not, but it's finished, round and solid. I don’t want to change anything even one iota. A hot plate, warm plates of meat, meat sauce, the word for gravy to Greek would not be a shame, young edamame soybeans, different and carved greens, with nettles. And coriander - even those who don't like white pepper, for example, still admit that it is a jewel here.

Leek soup (310 rubles) is a rather empty mono soup on water, not even on vegetable broth, where several flavors merge into an ensemble. Enriching. Mom's recipe, I understand. But the essence, but the joy of mom's soup, simple and loving, is in mom. If Anton and Andrey will not adopt me, then the soup should be made for restaurants, add some DETAIL. Crunchy parmesan chips, breaded poached, I don't know - it's all the same what to add, what to complicate. But I didn't find anything that would entertain the guest, without a smiling mother standing next to him. And to make the soup less like minestrone, it's even flavored with parmesan like a real minestrone. Ate, but without joy. Too easy. The word "good" is not a characteristic that is needed here and now.

Oats (470 rubles), in the style of risotto, is closest to perlotto, probably in the feel of the grains, although this is a very rough comparison. There are more porcini mushrooms than oyster mushrooms. The plants in the plate are fresh mustard from the hydroponic rows. Here you are, mustard ... Ricotta on top - a cold note, both in terms of temperature and in terms of "curd sourness" cold. Not at all white, not at all the usual celery root, it can be mistaken for a turnip, but generally baked like a pumpkin. Yes, the chef said "they cooked in a combi oven ...". No, it says "celery root", and they give it away. Perfectly.

If he is so good at making risotto-style oats, he should buy an oyster risotto - but not today. Okay, then a great way to check what the waiter will advise you instead. Freeball or oats. I would suggest both in his place. Both dishes are interesting to me. Do you have a burger? The legacy of Himself ... Then a fregol with a thymus gland, I hope, a calf (420 rubles). The "sweet meat" itself in a crisp-light crust is wonderful, a pasta with a light homemade demiglas and saffron, easy for the words "Milanese". An excellent dish, Pity, it won't be a HIT.

Carrot dessert (290 rubles), fluffy, light, restaurant. White chocolate ganache is too ... ganache is sweet. Well, where is the author? But in general - the line is respected. And it is not overcomplicated, and there is enough interest to the very end.

Total... Here's what I thought ... Erase the compromised name from the title. RENAME to Anton and Andrey. Yes, I understand what will look like the sixth rework, a month after the fifth. I consider the future vector "for tapas" to be politically harmful and go to Siberia! Influence of Aram Mikhalych to limit, as now, imposed and without choice, water "San Benedetto" for 440 rubles. Not because it's bad, but because if there is a misfire four times, you probably need to move away? Reasonable. Let the "Cork" remain as beautiful. But there. Drink fruit drinks at 120 rubles. They are Antonov's, not Aramov's. And not to go for the sake of a restaurant group, to go “to eat”. And "for food" and for impressions. On the plates - it is clear, thoughtful, all parts are logical, there is an author with whom I do not always agree, but always respect, not overcomplicated, modern, so far - very cheap. Most of the portions mean "four dishes per man". Look like that's it. "Anton & Andrey".

A long time ago, when the sun was shining a little brighter, they gave 32 confident rubles for a dollar, and they heard about Bryansk meat only in Bryansk itself, the restaurant "Entrecote" on Bolshaya Morskaya began to be called Jerome. It happened with a light hand, who thus tried to promote his boss Jerome Laurier to the masses. The masses resisted. They equally misunderstood the concept of meat and the moment when the restaurant began to call itself "cantina" and emphasize on the menu junk food, like shawarma or burgers. Somewhere between these metamorphoses, apparently not fully understanding what they wanted from him, Jerome left Jerome directly. In such a cunning way, the seemingly named restaurant was left without a chef, after whom it got its name, and - what a surprise - it began to experience perhaps the best stage in its history. And this is mainly due to the name of the new chief -.

For three and a half years of Antonio's stay in St. Petersburg, he has come a rather interesting path. He started as a chief in the last months of his life. on Belinsky, then experimented in Barbaresco and 22.13 , which also closed - simultaneously and for debts. At the same time, the peak and a kind of Mariana Trench of Antonio's career can be considered Barberini... The project, created directly under the chef, was distinguished by a very powerful execution of the gastronomic part and absolutely terrible everything else - from service to renovation, which was never formally finished. All this disgrace was closed very quickly - practically, without having time to open. Antonio first disappeared from sight, and then suddenly suddenly found himself in "Traffic jam", but already on Dobrolyubov... Without presentations, fanfare or press releases, he just stood by the stove and started cooking. And got ready to "Jerome" ... Which has now become a restaurant of Antonio's signature cuisine and, moreover, a rather militant project of the manager Andrei Musikhin. Among other things, a hydroponic installation (an environmentally correct device that allows you to grow greens all year round) and a chef who remained in Jerome from those difficult times when Laurier had already disappeared from the radar and Freza had not yet appeared in the main roles. Actually, that's all - the historical part seems to be over here.

In general, you gradually begin to get used to the almost annual transformations of "Jerome". Especially considering that outwardly the restaurant changes only a little. And now everything, in principle, has remained in place. Of the cosmetic innovations, only hydroponics spread out on the walls and Chef's Table, sitting at which you can watch the work of Antonio or Almaz, were noticed. But the menu has changed dramatically. As far as the concept is concerned, the new Jerome seems to have decided to kill a brood of hares with one shot at once - here you have both the author's gastronomy, and aim at everything organic and biodynamic wines.

Antonio finally got away from very deliberate experiments with kitchen devices - in "Jerome" everything is calibrated so as to be equally interesting, unusual and understandable. It is recommended to start your acquaintance with the old-new restaurant from the tapas section, which is not for nothing that is placed on the main page of the menu. You can argue for a long time about the fact that tiny tapas are not entirely justified in terms of prices and are more suitable for compliments, but as far as the idea is concerned, almost all of them do not raise questions. And shrimp tartare with a creatively rethought gazpacho turns out to be almost an ideal overture to a future gastronomic performance.

Already replicated to the masses, Vitello manages to be both familiar and rebellious at the same time: Tonnato sauce in tandem with fresh bluefin tuna can be equally well perceived as a harmonious combination of ingredients, and as a subtle joke for initiates. It all depends solely on the degree of gastronomic savvy and sense of humor.

Oats, which Antonio cooks with oyster mushrooms, porcini mushrooms, celery root and ricotta, are made in the manner of risotto - the final composition of tastes turns out to be interesting, but not everyone can understand it. Especially, given the quivering love of many specifically for the classic risotto and the import-substituting transition to perlotto, grechotto, as well as spelled and oats, which has not yet been fully completed.

But Thai soup, based on tom yama and tom kha, is obscenely elegant, simple and, as a result, very understandable. It is clearly not worth looking for any hints of pungency in this case, but it is possible and even necessary to understand how the quality of each product affects the final taste.

There is not much room for desserts on the menu, but this is more than offset by a fair amount of imagination in each of them. Snickers prepared into components with peanut ice cream and siphoned mousse, or an apple dessert disassembled into textures, which Antonio presented at the qualifying stage of S. Pellegrino Young Chef in 2015, Chartreuse with chocolate, meringue and yuzu - all this is visual shows that the new chef, juggling with flavors and collecting them anew, strives precisely for balance. Which, in all honesty, was so lacking for "Jerome" until recently.