Beer fermentation: first and second, temperature and timing of fermentation. How much beer is fermenting? Features, stages, aromas of beer fermentation at home
To become a home brewer, you need only one thing - the desire to brew beer. The rest will be helped by the exorbitantly developed brewing industry, as well as this article. The collected material is a complete guide for brewing beer at home from malt and hops. More is not required.
Beer, conditionally, can be prepared in two ways: from malt extract and directly grain. The first way is the easiest: you need to buy a malt extract, mix it with water, boil, add sugar and yeast, ferment the resulting wort and bottle it (we wrote a separate one). It doesn’t sound interesting, but it was malt concentrates that became a good help for popularizing home brewing. Perhaps you should start with them. I’ll explain now.
Malt Concentrate is a concentrated beer wort. The beer production technology itself according to the traditional recipe is very laborious, to a greater extent due to the stage at which the wort is prepared. At home, it takes 5-7 hours of nerves, dancing with a thermometer and the maximum concentration of attention. During these 5-7 hours, the malt is rubbed with water, heated to a certain temperature with certain pauses, then filtered and only then cooked with hops and other ingredients.
The malt concentrate is prepared in a similar way, after which the hopped wort is concentrated - the liquid is simply evaporated to form the very powder (or viscous mass) that we are sold in beautiful jars with the label “malt concentrate”. In other words, home brewers have a unique opportunity to bypass the complex and time-consuming process of making beer wort.
But there comes a time when the brewer, having tried various concentrates and additives to them, begins to think about traditional brewing, which, oddly enough, the beer giants practice.
If you still think that large factories brew beer from "powder", then you are deeply mistaken. It . Malt concentrate is several times more expensive than ordinary beer malt, not to mention the organization of its production, so it’s not profitable for beer giants to use them.
Well, let’s and we will brew our first beer from malt, hops, water and yeast!
In 1516, Germany passed the Law on Beer Cleanliness, the so-called Reinheitsgebot, according to which beer should be brewed exclusively from barley malt, hops and water. We do not suffer from purism, but it is from malt and hops that we will continue to dance, as well as from yeast, which we discovered much later. But we assume that any interesting ingredients can be added to the wort: unmalted grain, honey, herbs, fruits and their juices, vegetables, even mushrooms and tree bark. Brewing is a creative process.
MALT
First of all, this is a convenient cook boiler, it is also a mash tun, enameled or stainless steel, most often with a thermo-cover. As a fermentation tank, a fermenter, which is mainly called a “beer factory”, plastic tanks can be used, with a slot in the lid for a water lock, or barrels made of plastic or stainless steel, equipped with faucets, thermometers, manometers and other convenient pribludy.
Now it’s hard to do without what:
- Scales or measuring cup for malt and hops.
- Capacity for soaking and filtering (bucket-basin for 5-10 l).
- Crusher for malt (mill, meat grinder, coffee grinder).
- A boiler for 25-30 liters.
- Spoon with a long handle - paddle (plastic).
- Accurate thermometer with a scale of up to 100 ° C.
- Iodine - for malt testing and disinfection (or special disinfector).
- Fermentation tank with water trap.
- Hydrometer for measuring the density of the wort.
- Silicone tube for beer overflow.
- Glass or plastic bottles with tight caps.
Of all the above, it is most difficult to do without a thermometer. During the preparation of the wort, in particular its malting, it is very important to precisely observe the temperature breaks, otherwise the beer simply will not work. The bottles are comfortable with a yoke cap, you can also use standard beer bottles, but then you will have to buy a cork closer and crown caps themselves (ordinary beer caps).
What will come in handy yet:
- Self-adhesive thermometer for fermentation tank.
- Filter materials, add. containers for filtration.
- Canvas or gauze bag for mashing wort.
- Chiller for quick cooling of the wort (or ice bath).
We recommend that you take a closer look at some of the brewing products on the world famous Chinese trading platform AliExpress. Recently, we have been conducting a column in which we publish collections of such products. For example, you will find links to cheap penny measuring instruments necessary for comfortable brewing and much more (scales, thermometers, hydrometers, volumetric flasks, a bag for mashing, etc.)
Training
Cleanliness is the key to success! In this case, this is not an empty phrase. Beer wort is an ideal breeding medium for any microorganisms that develop colonies in it in a matter of hours and beer will not work out of this. Always use sterile containers and accessories, minimize contact of the wort with air. During cooking, wash your hands thoroughly with soap, and it is better to wipe them with alcohol, like any tools that will come into contact with the must.
Disinfection is the key to successful brewing.
Tanks can be washed with iodine solution or special disinfectants that fill beer shops. You can also use a weak solution of bleach: 1 tbsp. l on 5 l of water. But still more reliable than special equipment. After their use, be sure to rinse thoroughly with disinfected containers, preferably with hot water (be careful with plastic). After iodine, it is not necessary to rinse. Do not use several solutions at once - their reaction between themselves can lead to the formation of toxic substances.
As a sterilizer, you can use the head from under any moonshine.
Brewing wort
So, you bought or sprouted quality beer malt, found aromatic hops, prepared water and sterilized all the equipment. Now, in fact, it's time to learn how to brew beer at home.
First you need to make a recipe, namely to decide how dense and bitter your beer will be. Programs for brewers for PC, such as BeerSmith, will help us with this. For educational purposes, you can use it for 21 days, then you have to buy a license, but it costs that money ($ 28). BeerSmith allows you to automatically calculate all the parameters of future beer based on the given ingredients. Also, it already has 100 styles of beer from the BJCP guide. By the way, it will not be superfluous to acquire the BJCP management itself, where beer classification is available.
Malt preparation
First you need to measure the malt. For a classic beer recipe, 4 kg of malt per 25 l of beer is taken from malt and hops. You can vary the amount of malt and water, thereby affecting the density of the drink and its taste. Malt should be checked, rinsed from dust and dirt.
Refined beer malt needs to be crushed into small grits. To do this, you can use a malt grinder, but if it was not at hand, a conventional meat grinder or other kitchen equipment will come down: a blender, a food processor, a coffee grinder. However, practice has shown that having a malt mill on hand is much more convenient and practical.
Before mashing the wort, some brewers do the so-called "mashing" - soaking the malt with water for 12 hours. This procedure is needed to give the malt husk elasticity - during crushing it will not be damaged, which means it will be more convenient to filter the wort. Also, “mashing” activates enzymes. Grinding wet malt leads to corrosion of the metal parts of the crushers, therefore, not all resort to this method. But soaking can be done after grinding, right? Be that as it may, our main task is to prepare and grind our malt to the desired condition (the optimal grinding size is like in barley grits).
Infusion mashing
Wort mashing is the most important process in making beer. At this stage, crushed malt is mixed with water (rubbed), as a result of which the malt enzymes go into solution and break down the starch into sugar, which will then be processed by the yeast. Enzymes require a certain temperature to work. There are two fundamentally different mashing methods: infusion and decoction. We will use infusion - this is a classic mashing pattern for home use, during which the wort is heated sequentially, while the required temperature pauses for the action of the enzymes are maintained. The boiling method is used in factories, as it is cheaper - part of the wort is boiled and added to the rest, raising its temperature to the desired one.
For the classic beer recipe, a 1/3 hydraulic module is used (1 part malt / 3 parts water). Therefore, to make 25 liters of beer we need to take 4 kg of malt and 12 liters of water. Boil the water and cool to 60 ° C. Pour malt in a thin stream, thoroughly mixing the wort so that no lumps form. If you don’t have a convenient brewing boiler with a filter system, you can make your first attempts to brew beer using the “in a bag” method - pour malt into a fabric bag and “rub” it directly in it.
At this stage, it is desirable to check the acidity of the wort using a pH test. For brewing, the optimal pH \u003d 5.2..5.5. How to acidity should be increased. For this, any food-grade acids are used.
After mixing hot water with malt, it's time to arm yourself with a thermometer and monitor the temperature pauses. All three of them, two of which are required:
- Protein break. The congestion is maintained for 15-20 minutes at a temperature of 25-55 ° C. This pause is optional. It is used if a slightly modernized malt or “unmalted” is used. During the pause, the brewing boiler (pan) must be insulated, periodically mix the wort. A protein break promotes a better breakdown of proteins, reduces the turbidity of the wort, and facilitates further filtering. The density of taste slightly decreases, the amount of foam decreases.
- Maltose pause. The mash is aged from 20 minutes to 1.5 hours at a temperature of 62-68 ° C. During this time, enzymes process starch into maltose, monosugar. At a low temperature and a long pause, more fermentable sugars are obtained, which means that beer becomes stronger, and the taste density is significantly lost. At a higher temperature and a shorter pause, more non-fermentable dextrins are formed, which give the beer a dense taste. The fortress, accordingly, falls.
- Saccharification pause. The congestion is maintained for 15 minutes at a temperature of 70-75 ° C. At this stage, the final saccharification of the wort takes place. Starch completely breaks down into dextrins, the decomposition of enzymes begins. With the increase of this pause, which makes sense only by reducing the previous ones, the beer strength decreases and its taste density increases.
After the third pause, an iodine test should be done to check the completeness of saccharification. To do this, take a couple of drops of mash and place them on a white plate. Wait a few minutes and add a drop of iodine, then mix the drops. If the color change has not occurred, then the wort is completely saccharified and can be put on fermentation. If iodine turns blue, it means starch is still present in the wort - the wort still needs to be boiled for 15 minutes at a temperature of 70-75 ° С. After that, you can still boil it for 5 minutes at a temperature of 75-77 ° C and proceed with filtration.
Mash filtering
If you initially rubbed the wort in the bag, then filtering the wort is practically not necessary. Nevertheless, the pellet (the undissolved part of the wort) still contains a lot of sugar, so it is advisable to rinse it. The optimum temperature for flushing water is 75-77 ° C. But more on that later. First you need to filter the wort and measure its density. Modern cookers are equipped with a false filter system and a crane. All that is needed is to place a large collecting tank under the tap and start draining the wort. The first wort will be cloudy, so it is better to pour it into a separate container until a clear liquid begins to flow from the tap. It is necessary to change the capacity to the main one, and return the first muddy wort to the filter tank.
Malt pellet works here, which is collected in a dense layer on the mesh bottom (if we are talking about a purchased brewing boiler) and begins to play the role of a good filter. You can assemble your filter system from a large tank and sieve, but I will leave these engineering wisdom to your conscience. After filtering, it is necessary to measure the density of the wort using a hydrometer. Typically, the density varies between 14-22%. It's time to bring the density of the wort to the parameters in our recipe with a rinse. The amount of water depends on the desired density.
For beer with a density of 12%, the following amount of water should be taken with a temperature of 75-77 ° C (not higher):
During the filtration process, try to control the density of the wort using a hydrometer, so as not to overdo it with the amount of flushing water - at the end of the flush, more “useless” substances pass into the wort, which only increase turbidity.
Wort and beer hopping
The resulting wort must again be poured into a wort kettle and boiled for 1-2 hours with the addition of hop cones. Beer brewing is needed to enrich the wort with hop bitterness and aroma. During boiling, all unnecessary microorganisms are killed, malt enzymes are finally destroyed. It is recommended to boil the wort for at least 1 hour. Boiling should be active, 10-15 minutes before the end of cooking, it is better to reduce the fire and cover the wort with a lid.
Put the must on the fire, add hops for bitterness - about 80% of the norm of hops. The bitterness that will turn into beer from hops depends on the amount of alpha acids contained in cones (or granules). For example, to get a drink with a light hop bitterness per 25 l of wort, it’s enough to take 25-50 g of granulated hop with an alpha acid content of 6.4%, for bitter beer - 60-100 g. The granules are simply put in the wort, it’s better to put the cones into the fabric bag. For 10-15 minutes before the end of cooking, you need to add hops for taste, and 5 minutes for aroma. Irish moss is also added with flavor and aromatic hops to better clarify the beer.
Beer Wort Cooling
The boiled wort needs to be quickly cooled to a fermentation temperature of 16-18 ° C. It is important to cool it quickly, in 20-30 minutes - this reduces the risk of contamination of the wort with extraneous microorganisms, which can seriously compete with yeast. At home, this can be done with a cold water bath (possibly with plenty of ice).
If you intend to brew regularly, I advise you to purchase a chiller - a coil, through which cold running water is supplied.
Chiller is the best way to quickly cool beer after brewing.
Add yeast with preparation
During cooling, it is advisable to scatter the yeast, so that later you do not have to wait:
- Pour a small amount of wort into a sterile container with a temperature not exceeding 30 ° C and pour / pour yeast into it.
- Cover with a sterile lid and let stand for 30-40 minutes. When signs of fermentation appear, yeast can be introduced into chilled wort.
But before introducing the yeast, the cold wort must be freed from suspensions, because of which the cold wort becomes cloudy. This process will positively affect the final taste of the drink. To do this, stir the wort with rotational movements using your stirring spoon. As a result of rotation, the suspension will settle to the bottom in the center of the container, and the wort can be drained without problems into a brewery for fermentation.
Also, before introducing yeast cultures, it is important to saturate the wort with oxygen, which is all gone during boiling. To do this, the wort needs to be mixed intensively, and it is better to pour it from a high height. Experienced brewers use aquarium compressors for aeration. Do not forget that everything should be as sterile as possible.
The main fermentation of beer
Before setting the wort to fermentation, take a small amount of it to check the density. This data will come in handy later. The optimal density for light light beer is 10-12%, for a dense beer - 12-16%. After making yeast, mix the wort well. Close the fermentation tank with a lid with a water lock and place it in the place where the beer will ferment. It should be a dry room with a stable temperature of 18-24 ° C.
Beer fermentation lasts 5-8 days. The end of fermentation is characterized by the absence of emitted carbon dioxide through a water trap. Open the container, take a small amount of young beer to measure the density. For fermented beer, the density should drop to 2-2.2%. In fermented beer, the density is constant, since sugars are no longer processed by yeast. Knowing the initial and final density, you can calculate the final strength of the drink. If everything went well, beer can be poured into bottles and sent for ripening.
Overflow, ripening, ripening
So we came to the most pleasant stage of home brewing. At this stage, beer does not have a full taste. In order for this taste to form, beer must go through a process of maturation in tightly corked bottles. Before overflow, you need to get rid of the yeast sediment - gently drain the beer through the silicone hose without stirring the precipitate. You can use an intermediate overflow: first pour the beer into a container, which should be left for a day at a low temperature (5-7 ° C), and then pour the fully clarified drink into bottles.
To make the beer ferment and be saturated with carbon dioxide, sugar or other substances that contain it, for example, honey or un hopped malt extract, are added to it. For 1 liter of beer, it is enough to take 8-9 g of sugar or honey, malt extract - 11 g or 1.25 times more sugar. Of course, malt extract is preferred. Their sugar is better to boil syrup or use fructose-dextrose (6-7 g / 1 l). You can add sugar to each bottle, after which they must be shaken well for complete dissolution, but it is better to mix the required amount of sugar / malt with beer in a separate container and from there pour the drink into bottles.
Beer is bottled in clean, sterile bottles. It is necessary to leave 3-4 cm from the neck for normal maturation and concentration of carbon dioxide. Glass bottles without a tight cork stopper need to be corked with new crown caps. Beer needs to be fermented in a dark room at room temperature. Ripening should take place in a cool dark place for at least 1-2 weeks. In order not to get confused, it is better to label the bottles - indicate the type of beer on them, and the date when it was bottled. It can be stored for 6-8 months, while the drink will remain “alive” all this time.
It's time to reap the benefits of their activities.
I will continue to cover the beer theme and I hope for any feasible help on your part. Becoming a home brewer is not difficult. This requires only one thing - the desire to cook. In conclusion, I want to say that home brewers are enthusiastic people who are not afraid to go for an experiment. Do not limit yourself to anything other than using the results of your new hobby. For moderation is the best feast!
"data-modal-addimage \u003d" "data-modal-quote \u003d" "data-modal-preview \u003d" "data-modal-sub \u003d" "data-post_id \u003d" 4608 "data-user_id \u003d" 0 "data-is_need_logged \u003d "0" data-lang \u003d "en" data-decom_comment_single_translate \u003d "comment" data-decom_comment_twice_translate \u003d "comment" data-decom_comment_plural_translate \u003d "comment" data-multiple_vote \u003d "1" data-text_lang_comment_deleted \u003d "comment deleted \u003d "Edited in" data-text_lang_delete \u003d "Delete" data-text_lang_not_zero \u003d "Field is not NULL" data-text_lang_required \u003d "This is a required field." Data-text_lang_checked \u003d "Check one of the items" data-text_lang_completed \u003d "Operation completed" data -text_lang_items_deleted \u003d "Objects have been deleted" data-text_lang_close \u003d "Close" data-text_lang_loading \u003d "Loading ..."\u003e
Submit Cancel
This stage begins after cooking and fermentation. It allows you to bring the young beer to the desired state: for this it is necessary to go through the fermentation stage and infuse for several days. As a rule, the fermentation temperature should be higher than the fermentation temperature: this contributes to the appearance of carbon dioxide (CO2) in beer.
For fermentation, beer must be poured into sterile bottles using a siphon tube. To remove excessive sediment, a double transfusion is allowed. Moreover, during these procedures, try to “excite” the beer as little as possible - shake, move, etc. This can change the pressure, as a result of which the containers will simply explode.
For fermentation, sugar, glucose or sugar syrup is placed in the beer at the rate of 7-9 g / 1 liter. During this exposure time, natural carbonization is carried out - that is, carbonation. It is realized due to the occurrence of carbon dioxide in beer.
In order to tongue (carbonate) beer, sweet ingredients are used. In situations where carbonation did not occur and the beer “ran out”, it means that old or low-quality yeast was used. Correct the situation really if you add fresh yeast.
Exposure conditions.
In order not to spoil the beer at this stage, observe the following conditions:
- Beer is allowed to insist in both plastic and glass bottles. The ideal option is something from dark glass, as beer does not like light. In factories, special tanks are used for this.
- At the final pouring of beer to the neck, leave at least 3 cm.
- Try to maintain a slight overpressure.
- Maintain room temperature. Do not let it rise above 20 degrees.
- In bottles, beer will be prepared in 5-6 days, in kegs in 8-10 days.
Beer maturation is not a fermentation process!
Many people confuse this procedure with aging (maturation) - although in reality these are different processes. Maturation always begins only after fermentation and maturation. Their duration can reach 1 year, but can not be less than 7 days.
In addition, at home, the procedure is slower, since professional devices are not used for this. Therefore, the longer the drink is infused, the better.
In kegs, beer matures even longer. Keep the temperature below room temperature! At elevated temperatures, the process will be of poor quality and the risk of ruining all work increases. You can control the procedure through a test: the first of them is allowed to be carried out on 10-14 days. At the end of the drink receives its special taste and aromatic characteristics and is completely ready for use.
Lightening when ripe!
In fact, it is possible to drink beer after ripening, but the taste will be different with what you get after ripening. It is no coincidence that this stage is considered to be the final in home-made beer, because it will depend on it the final taste, aroma and quality of the drink.
What happens during this time?
- The color is stabilized and the taste becomes richer.
- The alcohol content changes.
- Subsequently, the drink is better absorbed by the body.
- Yeast absorbs sugar and other unnecessary substances accumulated in the drink, which spoil the original properties.
After this lengthy procedure is completed, the yeast along with other unnecessary substances will settle to the bottom in the form of a precipitate, which will help the natural clarification of the drink.
How long does a beer mature?
People closely familiar with brewing claim that the longer the beer matures, the better. But besides this, the production time is related to what kind of beer you are making!
Ripening dates:
- For light, a suitable period is not less than 14-21 days.
- For dark - 3 months, if desired, is allowed longer.
As a rule, for each individual variety, recipes indicate their individual dates, which will help to prepare the best product in terms of characteristics.
What is the best way to store a ripening product?
In order not to lose the quality of the drink, to form its specific characteristics brighter and richer, special conditions of detention should be observed.
For storage, it is advisable to select a shaded and clean place, because if you use a basement for this, take care of the sterility of the space.
The maturation of beer in kegs can last longer, in addition, they will need to buy various additional equipment - a refrigerator, a tap, etc.
To track changes in taste, you can create one small control tank to sample the drink every two to three weeks.
Video from a lover of home brewing, where he shares his experience and gives practical recommendations!
In order to make beer yourself, you don’t need any special equipment at all. It is much more important to understand the stages of brewing, to be able to maintain the correct conditions during the aging period of beer. In this case, home-made beer will turn out to be aromatic, tasty, and, unlike the purchased drink, natural.
The project “Restaurants of New Kaliningrad.Ru”, after a conversation with the technologist and brewer of the Hercules brewery Pavel Borovets, revealed a number of interesting brewing details: what is malt, how does the type of future beer depend on its variety, how many times and at what stage of beer preparation hops are added. We also tasted all types of beer offered by Hercules and even a new variety that is not yet on sale.
- Where did you study the art of brewing?
I started working at a large brewery - Pete. Then the Berlin Institute of Brewing organized seminars in Moscow for brewers, I have a certificate for this seminar. And when I already started working in the Brewery of the Hercules Restaurant, I consulted with the Austrian brewer Vincenz Fleck, who designed our brewery.
- What is the difference between working in a large factory and in a small brewery?
In volumes and in the ability to experiment, to change something depending on the preferences of our customers or in our opinion. Choose different proportions or types of malt, for example.
- What is beer made of?
There are four components. The most important thing is malt. This is sprouted barley, or sprouted wheat.
- Necessarily sprouted?
Yes, they are factory-grown and prepared as a component for brewing. We buy malt in Bavaria, at one of the best malt houses in the world, Weyermann, which has been operating as a family business since 1879. The process of germinating malt takes about a month, first the grain is soaked to start the biological processes embedded in the grain. Then it is germinated and dried in a special way. The type of malt depends on the drying process (time and temperature). Our brewery uses six types of malt and brews four types of beer. For four types, six types of malt are needed to add them in a certain proportion. Somewhere for color, somewhere for taste.
- That is, one barley is used, but several types of malt are obtained from it during processing?
Absolutely right. The basis for brewing beer - the base, so to speak - is Pilsner malt, from 80 to 95% of the total mass of malt. The remaining varieties are added for color, smell and taste. By the way, in this form, in grains, it is already quite edible.
True, quite tasty grains. Blacks resemble roasted coffee, while light ones have a distant taste of bread ... So, two components of beer were found out: water, malt. What else?
The third component is hops. It is a plant, but it is supplied in granular form in most breweries (the smell of such hops resembles a good seasoned cheese, a rather pungent odor - approx. “New Kaliningrad.Ru”) . Hop is needed to give beer a “beer” bitterness and a specific aroma. There will be no beer without hops.
The fourth component is yeast. They look just like ordinary dry bakeries. We also have four types of yeast. Each beer has its own variety. For example, we will soon begin to brew wheat beer, it uses a special kind of yeast that gives the fruity aroma to beer. Yeast is added at the very last moment.
- Water, hops, different types of malt and different types of yeast. How does it all turn into beer?
The conditional vat is filled with water, heated to a certain temperature, then we add crushed malt. That is, this grain, which we saw, is slightly crushed. This process occurs automatically, by crusher. Violation of the integrity of the grain shell helps him completely give away the substances responsible for the taste.
The density of beer depends on the amount of malt. Least of all goes to Pshenichnoye, a little more goes to Red Ale and the maximum quantity goes to Black Stout.
- That is, malt gives beer strength?
Yes. There is such a term as "wort density". On the bottles you can see, write the notation. This is, roughly speaking, the solids content in beer.
After mixing the malt with water and before filtering the process is called “mashing”. Water is mixed with malt and a stepwise heating occurs. At each of these pauses, a certain chemical process occurs and as a result a wort is obtained.
By the way, you need to try it. It is very useful, but, unfortunately, is not even stored in the refrigerator at all.
- Delicious! Muddy warm drink with a rich aroma of fresh black bread, but sweetish in taste.Where does the boiled grain go then?
All this mass goes to the "filter tank". At its bottom are sieves that do not allow large particles to pass through. So the liquid is separated from the dry substances, the filtration process ends and boiling begins.
- First, mashing, then filtering, then boiling. What's next?
The maximum temperature does not exceed 98 degrees. Hops are added during this process. But not immediately, but in stages. The sooner you set the hops, the more bitterness he will give to the drink, and the late task of the hops gives the beer a flavor.
Then the drink passes into the next tank and cools along the way. For example, light or smoked beer - up to 10-12 degrees. We maintain this temperature and add yeast.
“Based on my baking experience, I know that yeast feels better at higher temperatures.”
This temperature is needed for slow "bottom" fermentation. And for top fermentation, the temperature will be 20-22 degrees, and the process will go faster.
Now the red beer that we brewed yesterday is just wandering around. I will open the lid and it can be photographed. Foam on top indicates the work of yeast.
“How long should this beer roam, Red Ale?”
About two days. But there are beers in the Czech Republic, for example, that roam for 30 days.
- About wine, you can say "young" or with "aging." Is there something similar in brewing?
There is the term "grün bier", green beer. This beer can now be called that. Green is not ready to eat yet.
- And after how much is this "green beer" ready to drink?
A fermentation process is still needed. For varieties with top fermentation, 14 days, and for bottom fermentation another 21 days. At this time, every day we lower the temperature by one degree, the yeast gradually settles and is removed. And only after that beer can be bottled in kegs (keg is a metal container used for storing and transporting beer - approx. “New Kaliningrad.Ru”).
- And what is the shelf life of beer?
If you pour it, then no more than 8 days for live beer.
- What is the difference between living beer and non-living beer?
Rather, from pasteurized. The presence of yeast. Most of the yeast is removed by filtration, but those that remain make the beer "alive."
“Do you brew four beers now?”
Yes. We had and will have four beers in stock. Smoked beer ...
- Smoked beer? What is it like?
Special smoked malt is used, which is smoked on beech sawdust.
- I know that you want to remove this type from the line of beers?
Because we are ready to offer 4 different beers. Now we are adding Light Wheat, which means one kind of beer will have to be sacrificed. Most likely, we will remove Smoked. It depends on the demand of our customers. Perhaps because it is dark, and for dark beer, for some reason, the percentage of sales is less. Although he has fans.
- So you remove from the line dark beers in general?
Why, we leave the Dark Stout, which is cooked using burnt and caramel malts. This is the strongest beer in our assortment.
- So, what types of beer do you brew and offer your customers today?
The smoked beer we talked about is Light Lager, Red Ale and Black Stout. And very soon, we will offer our customers Light wheat beer, which, I think, will quickly gain popularity.
- Very soon when is it?
To summer. I think in mid-June. We have already purchased some raw materials and have recently done a trial cooking, now we will order b aboutthe largest batch of raw materials so that this beer is always in our assortment.
- It is a little muddy, but light and very pleasant to the taste.
Turbidity is due to yeast. This is a fairly popular beer both in the world and in our city.
Be sure to try Red Ale. This is a top-fermented beer with an interesting taste. Riding fermentation process is faster and the final result is less like beer, therefore it is called ale.
- But the taste is quite beer.
Of course, because hops were added there according to the recipe. Previously, in the 15th century, ales were cooked without any hops at all. Mint and some other herbs were strewn there. And now, in our time, beer called top fermentation is called ale. This occurs at higher temperatures compared to bottom fermentation with the release of specific phenols.
- What are the most popular beers now, according to sales?
Bright Lager and Red Ale.
- At the Light Camp such a typical beer taste. A slightly bitter, rich classic beer, in my opinion. No wonder it is popular.
From the Hercules beer line"Restaurants of New Kaliningrad.Ru" recommend Smoked beer. Very unusual and pleasant taste, moderately bitter, you can feel the smack of smoked malt on beech sawdust. Hurry up to try, because in a month or two it will be replaced by the popular Light Wheat Beer. "Restaurants of New Kaliningrad.Ru" will write about it.
The main step for making popular foam alcohol is fermentation. Sugars, which are in a fermenting mass, are converted into alcohol, carbon dioxide and other components due to the action of microorganisms.
How does one of the most important stages in brewing go? What is the optimum temperature at this stage? Are there any features?
The central stage of brewing begins with the addition of yeast to the wort. Under their influence, simple sugars are converted to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The duration and temperature of alcohol fermentation depend on what kind of alcohol you want to get as a result.
At this stage, several processes can be distinguished - primary and secondary. The primary, or main, fermentation process begins at the moment of adding the yeast culture. In the process, the wort is covered with foam. After some time, 5-10 days, the yeast settles in a fermentation tank. After this, the alcohol is poured into the fermenter so that the settled dead yeast cells do not spoil the taste of the final product. In this case, the wort is freed from hop sediment, particles of grain and tannins. 
The primary stage takes place in a special room - a fermentation room, where fermentation tanks are located, in which beer wort is located. Such fermenters are well insulated and are located next to the basement for fermentation, to ensure independent flow of "young" beer.
The temperature in the fermenter is maintained at 4-6 degrees. Using the supply and exhaust ventilation, carbon dioxide released during the fermentation process is removed.
Secondary fermentation has its own nuances, which are worth paying attention to. 
Secondary fermentation, or croisening, is used to produce lagers. After pumping the "young" drink in a container for cold storage, actively fermenting beer with an additional portion of yeast is added to it.
With this, carbon dioxide is formed and the undesirable effects of primary fermentation are eliminated.How much beer is fermenting in this case? Secondary fermentation of alcohol can last from a week to two months. Brewers can filter the yeast depending on the style of alcohol and place in special tanks for ripening.
Also at this stage pasteurization can be carried out, which will make the drink more transparent, and the shelf life longer.Both primary and secondary fermentation affect the “density of beer” and the “how many degrees in beer” there will be in the final result. 
Beer fermentation temperature table
The temperature of the process depends on what type of alcohol should be - top or bottom fermentation, as well as which grade you want to get.
| Grade | Temperature |
| —Lager— — American dry and malt | 7 |
| —Pilsner— — American and European | 7-9 |
| Lambic and English Lager | 7-10 |
| European dark and amber Viennese | 9-10 |
| Oktoberfest | 9-12,5 |
| Double side and ale strong | 10 |
| Side | 10-12,5 |
| Bitter, golden, brown, Indian pale ale, creamy and oat stout, light and Scottish ale, porter | 12,5 |
| - Smoked - and - wheat - | 12,5 |
| Saison | 12,5-15,5 |
| Barley, Dry and Imperial Stout, Abbey Ale | 15,5 |
What is top fermented beer?
Oldest the type is alcohol obtained by fermentation. The process got its name due to the fact that after budding the yeast cultures do not separate for a long time and form colonies. Bubbles of carbon dioxide accumulate on such colonies, which, in turn, pushes yeast masses upward.
He needs higher temperatures than alcohol, which is produced using grassroots fermentation. Saccheromyas cerevisae yeast is used for this fermentation. They are related to yeast for grassroots fermentation, but their optimum temperature is much higher and is 14-28 degrees. Due to the high temperature, yeast cultures grow much faster, respectively, and the process itself is accelerated many times. When horse fermentation does not require special devices for instant cooling. 
This technology is usually used for production. wheat varietiesas well as for high alcohol varieties. Such alcohol matures very quickly, but very little is stored.Fast fermentation was a necessity at one time. Before the invention of refrigeration units, only a small number of breweries had suitable “cold” conditions for fermenting the drink.
English ales, as well as many varieties of Bavarian and Belgian alcohol are produced in this way. One of the nice additions to this method is natural — carbonization — which makes alcohol more foamy and “playful.” 
Today, the production of a drink by horse-drawn fermentation is causing more and more interest, especially for those who produce —beer at home—. The increased number of craft breweries and less sophisticated equipment for production make such alcohol more profitable for production.
Did you know? Bottom-fermented beer has a low alcohol content, an interesting and bright taste, and most importantly, a long shelf life.
What is bottom fermented beer
The modern method of preparation is the preparation of alcohol using bottom fermentation. This method differs in the complicated course of work with yeast cultures. Such fermentation requires a room in which the optimum temperature of 4-9 degrees will be maintained. 
During downstream fermentation, fewer bacteria are produced and, accordingly, the whole process takes longer. Infusion of the drink takes much longer than what happens with horse fermentation. The drink also requires a much longer time period for the fermentation process itself and subsequent storage. The optimum temperature for this process is considered to be 6-10 degrees. In this case, the yeast does not rise up, but settles to the bottom.
Very many manufacturers prefer this particular brewing method, since from a commercial point of view it looks more appropriate, and the alcohol obtained in this way has more pleasant taste shades.
Alcohol, which is produced using yeast bottom fermentation, belongs to the style of "lager", and the most popular varieties are considered Pilsen and black. 
Getting a “foamy” drink is not an easy task and requires a lot of serious and thorough approach at all stages - from selection of yeast culture to bottling. Fermentation as a central part of production is a very demanding process, a mistake during which will make the final product unusable.
If you intend to use one of the methods of fermentation, of course, you should consult with professional brewers, be patient and have specialized literature.
If you have “experienced” brewers among you, be sure to share your preferences and tips with “newcomers” in the comments.
